I love chunky knits and this one might be the chunkiest and cutest of them all. Made from We Are Knitters’ The Wool in Natural and Marshmallow, and Wool and the Gang’s Crazy Sexy Wool in Purple Haze it’s like wearing a hug whilst looking like a cute, pastel dream.

This sweater is designed to be quite oversized (I have a 36” chest and I’m wearing a medium) and it is easily adjusted for taller or shorter bodies. It’s knitted in the round, with raglan shaping and the arm stitches are held on waste yarn whilst the body is knitted and then picked up. It’s the perfect sweater if you’ve never knitted a raglan before! There is the option of rows with purl stitches with extra detail but this is up to you ❤

Difficulty:
Intermediate (can you make left and right leaning increases? If so, you can do raglan shaping!!).

Techniques used:
1) Cast on
2) Knit
3) Purl
4) Left leaning increase
5) Right leaning increase
6) Placing stitches on waste yarn
7) Knitting two stitches together
8) Cast off
9) Magic loop

Needles required: 15 mm 80 + cm circular needles (you’ll need to use the magic loop method for the sleeves).

Suggested yarn:
We Are Knitters The Wool - available here and here.
Wool and the Gang Crazy Sexy Wool - available here, here and here.
Molly by Mayflower - available here.
Knitcraft Cosy on Up from Hobbycraft - Currently out of stock online but available in stores.

I have used We Are Knitters The Wool in Natural (yarn A) and Marshmallow (yarn B) and Wool And The Gang’s Crazy Sexy wool in purple haze (yarn C).

Please note: I have tried to cover a range of sizes however if you feel none of these are right for you, please do contact me and I'd be happy to work out stitch counts and yardage so you can enjoy this pattern! Please do just remember that this is a hobby and I’m in the last 18 months of my PhD so I might be slow in replying. In the images, I’m wearing a size medium.

This jumper is knitted on circular needles top down with raglan increases. Sleeve stitches are then put on hold using waste yarn and picked up after the body is finished. The neckline and hems are knitted in 1 x 1 rib and the remainder of the jumper in seed stitch.

Measurements and stitch counts are indicated as below - Stitch counts are indicated in size order so make sure to follow your size.

Sizes:
XS, (S), M, (L), XL, (2XL), 3XL

Measurements

Measurements are all in cm.
A- Jumper length - 52.5, (54), 58, (63), 68, (70), 73 (If you want your jumper slightly shorter or longer, simply knit more or fewer rows after you have split the arms and body stitches).
B - Chest (measurement taken from under the arms across the chest) - 94, (102), 111, (120), 128, (137), 145.
C - Arm length (from neck to end of arm) - Up to you- try on as you go

Tension:
6 stitches x 8 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

Yarnage:
900, (950), 1000, (1100), 1200, (1300), 1400 g of We Are knitters The Wool or similar.
1 skein of yarn is 200 g.

These are approximate - if you need to increase the length of the body or sleeves, you’ll need more yarn.

Raglan increases:
Each increase round will result in an 8 stitch increase- two either side of your four raglan stitches. Use a stitch marker to mark your raglan stitch. Knit up to the raglan stitch, make one right leaning increase, knit your raglan stitch, make one left leaning increase and then continue the round. Repeat this for each increase round.

Optional Seed Stitch:
For my sweater, I have used a simple seed stitch as extra detailing as I think it looks really cute! ❤.

Purl stitches are done every 4th row on every 4th stitch to create a simple seed stitch. On the 4th round of your sweater, knit three stitches after your raglan stitch (this will include your increase), then purl one stitch. Repeat this until you get to your raglan stitch and then knit three stitches, purl the next stitch and repeat. Every 4th row, repeat this but make sure your purls are in the same place as in above rows! As you increase stitches, you’ll need to add more purl stitches. Counting back from the first purl of the row, if there are 4 stitches not including your increased stitch, add a purl on the 4th stitch and repeat for the arms and body of you sweater. Hope that makes sense! If it doesn’t and you would like some clarity, please just ask.

Yoke:
Cast on 40, (40), 44, (44), 46, (48), 50 stitches using your preferred cast on method on 15 mm circular needles in colour C. Join the first and last stitches in the round ensuring your yarn isn’t twisted when doing so. Switch to colour B.

Knit 4 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit one stitch, purl one stitch).

Switch to colour A. Knit one row and mark your raglan stitches as you go. Place markers after 14, (14), 16, (16), 18, (20), (22) stitches (back piece), after 6 new stitches (sleeve), 14, (14), 16, (16), 18, (20), (22) stitches (front piece) and then after another 6 new stitches.

The next row will be your first raglan increases (see instructions above).

Repeat the two following rows 8, (9), 10, (11), 12, (13), 14 times.
1) Knit one row
2) Knit one row with raglan increases

At this point you will have 104, (112), 124, (132), 142, (152), 162 stitches on your needles.

Your sweater will measure approximately 24, (24), 26, (28), 31, (33), 36 cm measured from the first row of knit stitches to your current row.

For size XS, knit 2 more rounds (with no increases). All other sizes, knit 1 round (with no increases).

Body and arm separation
Knit 31, (34), 37, (40), 43, (46), 49 stitches (this is your back piece). Place the next 21, (22), 25, (26), 28, (30), 32 stitches on some waste yarn or stitch holder. Cast on 4, (4), 4, (4), 4, (4) 4 stitches for under the sleeve, knit 31, (34), 37, (40), 43, (46), 49 (front of sweater). Place the next 21, (22), 25, (26), 28, (30), 32 stitches on waste yarn or yarn holder and cast on 4, (4), 4, (4), 4, (4), 4 stitches. Insert a stitch marker here to indicate the beginning of the round.

You should now have 70, (76), 82, (86), 94, (100), 106 stitches on your needles.

Knit in continuous rounds until you have the desired length for your sweater. I am 5“5 and I knitted 14 rounds which measures 17 cm but this is completely up to you. As a guide, knit 16, (17), 18, (20), 22, (21), 22 rounds.

Switch to colour B.
Knit 4 rounds in 1 x 1 rib.
Switch to colour C.
Cast off.

Arms (repeat these steps for both arms)
Sleeves are worked in continuous rounds. Dependent on the length of your needles, you may need to use the magic loop method.
Place the stitches you put on hold onto your 15 mm circular needles. Pick up the 4, (4), 4, (4), 4, (4), 4 stitches you cast on for the body to join the sleeves and body. You should now have 25, (26), 29, (30), 32, (34), 36 stitches on your needles. Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round. Knit every round.

Every 2nd row, knit together the first and second, and the second to last and last stitches of the round. Repeat this until you have 17, (16), 17, (18), 20, (22), 22 stitches left (this should be after 8, (10), 12, (12), 12, (12), 14 rows). Knit until your sleeves reach just short of your desired length (try on as you go!).
Switch to colour B.

Decreases are as follows:
XS - (k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog) x 2 (12 stitches)
S - k2tog, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1 (12 stitches)
M - k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, k1, p1 (14 stitches)
L - k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, k1, p1 (14 stitches)
XL - (k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog) x 2, k2tog, p2tog (14 stitches)
2XL and 3XL - (k1, p2tog) x 6, k1, p1 (16 stitches)

Knit 4 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit one stitch, purl one stitch).

Switch to colour C and cast off.

Sew in all ends and you’re done!
Please do not republish my pattern or sell. Feel free to sell your jumpers but please credit me as the pattern author. ❤