Spring Fling Sweater Knitting Pattern

Welcome to the Spring Fling Sweater knitting pattern! She’s perfect for feeling like a spring meadow whilst it’s cold and gloomy outside or if you want to feel super cute and warm on the cooler summer evenings.

This sweater is designed to be quite oversized and it is easily adjusted for taller or shorter bodies. It’s knitted in the round, with raglan shaping and the arm stitches are held on waste yarn whilst the body is knitted and then picked up separately. It’s the perfect sweater if you’ve never knitted a raglan before! The embroidery is completely optional and suitable for beginners so don’t be afraid to give it a go!❤

Difficulty:
Intermediate (can you make left and right leaning increases? If so, you can do raglan shaping!!).

Techniques used:
1) Cast on
2) Knit
3) Purl
4) Left leaning increase
5) Right leaning increase
6) Placing stitches on waste yarn
7) Knitting two stitches together
8) Cast off
9) Magic loop

Needles required: 12 mm circular needles

Suggested yarn:
Lauren Aston Designs Super Chunky Merino - available here.

Please note: I have tried to cover a range of sizes however if you feel none of these are right for you, please do contact me and I'd be happy to work out stitch counts and yardage so you can enjoy this pattern! Writing patterns is still new to me so this is very much a learning process. In the images, I’m wearing a size medium.

This jumper is knitted on circular needles top down with raglan increases. Sleeve stitches are then put on hold using waste yarn and picked up after the body is finished. The neckline and hems are knitted in 1 x 1 rib and the remainder of the jumper in seed stitch.

Measurements and stitch counts are indicated as below - Stitch counts are indicated in size order so make sure to follow your size.
Sizes:
XS, (S), M, (L), XL, (2XL), 3XL

Measurements
Measurements are all in cm.
A- Jumper length - 48 cm, (52 cm), 56 cm, (60 cm), 63 cm, (66 cm), 70 cm (If you want your jumper slightly shorter or longer, simply knit more or fewer rows after the arm separation).
B - Chest (measurement taken from under the arms across the chest after the arm and body separation) - 100, (110), 120, (130), 140, (150), 160 cm.
C - Arm length (from neck to end of arm) - Up to you- try on as you go!

Tension:
8 stitches x 11 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

Yarnage:
390 m, (425 m), 460 m, (520 m), 560 m, (590 m), 620 m of Lauren Aston Designs Chunky Merino or similar.

These are approximate - if you need to increase the length of the body or sleeves, you’ll need more yarn.

Raglan increases:
Each increase round will result in an 8 stitch increase- two either side of your four raglan stitches. Use a stitch marker to mark your raglan stitch. Knit up to the raglan stitch, make one right leaning increase, knit your raglan stitch, make one left leaning increase and then continue the round. Repeat this for each increase round.

Yoke:
Cast on 40, (44), 44, (46), 46, (48), 48 stitches using your preferred cast on method on 12 mm circular needles. Join the first and last stitches in the round ensuring your yarn isn’t twisted when doing so.

Knit 6 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit one stitch, purl one stitch).

Knit one row and mark your raglan stitches as you go. Your stitch markers should be placed immediately before and after your raglan stitches.

Knit 13, (15), 15, (17), 17, (19), 19, stitches (back piece), place a stitch marker, knit one stitch, place stitch marker, knit 5 stitches (sleeve), place stitch marker, knit one stitch, place stitch marker, knit 13, (15), 17, (17), 18, (19), 19, stitches (front piece), place stitch marker, knit one stitch, place stitch marker, knit 5 stitches, place stitch marker, knit one stitch, place stitch marker. I recommend using a different colour stitch marker for the start of the round.

The next row will be your first raglan increases (see instructions above).

Repeat the two following rows 12, (13), 14, (15), 16, (17), 18 times.
1) Knit one row
2) Knit one row with raglan increases

At this point you will have 136, (148), 156, (168), 170, (182), 194 stitches on your needles.

Your sweater will measure approximately 30, (30), 32, (34), 36, (38), 40 cm measured from the first row of knit stitches to your current row.

Body and arm separation
Knit 38, (42), 44, (48), 50, (54), 56 stitches (this is your back piece). Place the next 30, (32), 34, (36), 38, (40), 42 stitches on some waste yarn or stitch holder. Cast on 6, (6), 6, (6), 8, (8) 8 stitches for under the sleeve, knit 38, (42), 44, (48), 50, (54), 56 (front of sweater). Place the next 30, (32), 34, (36), 38, (40), 42 stitches on waste yarn or yarn holder and cast on 6, (6), 6, (6), 8, (8) 8 stitches. Insert a stitch marker here to indicate the beginning of the round.

You should now have 88, (96), 100, (108), 116, (124), 128 stitches on your needles.

Knit in continuous rounds until you have the desired length for your sweater. I am 5“5 and I knitted 22 rounds which measures 20 cm but this is completely up to you. As a guide, knit 22, (24), 26, (28), 30, (32), 34 rows. The suggested number of rows assume that those knitting the larger sizes are taller which won’t always be the case so please feel free to deviate from the pattern to make your sweater fit you!

Knit 6 rounds in 1 x 1 rib.
Cast off.

Arms
Sleeves are worked in continuous rounds. Dependent on the length of your circular needles, you may need to use the magic loop method.
Place the stitches you put on hold onto your 12 mm circular needles. Pick up the 6, (6), 6, (6), 8, (8), 8 stitches you cast on for the body to join the sleeves and body. You should now have 36, (38), 40, (42), 46, (48), 50 stitches on your needles. Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round. Knit every stitch.

Every 2nd row, knit together the first and second, and the second to last and last stitches of the round. Repeat this until you have 18, (20), 22, (22), 24, (24), 26 stitches left (this should be after 18, (18), 18, (20), 22, (24), 24 rows. Knit until your sleeves reach just short of your desired length (try on as you go!).

Knit 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. If you have stitches left over (sizes XS, M, L and 3XL), knit the remaining stitches. You’ll now have 14, (15), 17, (17), 18, (18), 20 stitches left on your needles.

Knit 6 rows in 1 x 1 rib.

Cast off.

Repeat for the other arm.

What makes this sweater special is the embroidery. If you’ve never done this before, don’t worry as it’s simple, doesn’t require too much skill and it’s great for beginners. To do the embroidery, I recommend using a yarn the same weight as the sweater so if you’ve followed this pattern, super chunky. You could also use two strands of aran/worsted together. You’ll need a darning needle and if you fancy it, some sequins.

Lazy Daisy - Tutorial coming soon
Lavender Bunch - Tutorial coming soon
Rose - Tutorial coming soon
Heather plant - Tutorial coming soon

How to substitute yarn

So you’ve picked your pattern and you’re stuck choosing your yarn. Maybe the pattern suggests Crazy Sexy Wool from WATG or The Wool from WAK but you want to use a more affordable alternative; perhaps the project uses a DK weight yarn but you fancy using worsted or maybe the pattern asks for a wool based fibre but you’d prefer to use a vegan alternative. The tension (number of stitches and rows per 10 cm x 10 cm) varies between yarns and opting for a different yarn than asked for in the pattern can significantly affect how your project will turn out. Here, I’m going to show you how you can alter a pattern if you have a different tension than stated on the pattern and changing needle size can’t seem to sort it out or if you want to use a different yarn.

Please note: I’ve only done this for simple patterns - i.e. stitches which use only variations of knit and purl and projects which are knitted flat and seamed together.

I’ll be using the Seaside Cardigan size large as an example - you can find the pattern for free here.
This pattern uses the John Lewis Super Chunky Yarn (available here) and 12 mm needles. I’m going to adjust the pattern to use Paintbox Yarns Simply Super Chunky (available here)

Step 1 : Make you tension square with your chosen yarn. If you’re using chunky yarn, cast on around 10 stitches; if you’re using a DK weight yarn, cast on 25 stitches. For everything else do something in between. Knit 10 - 20 rows depending on yarn weight and cast off. Measure your square. For the sake of the example, I will use the tension stated on LoveCrafts - 10 cm x 10 cm = 7 stitches x 9 rows.

Step 2: You need to work out how many cm (or inches if your pattern is written in imperial) each stitch and row is.
length / stitch count = stitch cm
10 cm / 7 stitches = 1.4 cm per stitch
length / row count = row cm
10 cm / 9 rows = 1.1 cm per row

Step 3: Adjust the stitch counts in the pattern.
Seaside Cardigan size large - Length - 54 cm, width - 82 cm.
Length of cardigan / height of 1 row
54 / 1.1 = 49 rows
Width of cardigan / width of 1 stitch
82/1.4 = 58.5 stitches - Cast on 59 stitches, knit 49 rows.

Repeat this for all parts of project.

What to do for parts of the pattern where measurements aren’t given
Here, I’m thinking specifically about sleeves.
Calculate the cuff circumference - original yarn tension = 10 cm = 8 stitches
10 cm / 8 stitches = 1.25 cm per stitch
Number of stitches at the cuff - 24
24 stitches * 1.25 cm = 30 cm
30 cm of substituted yarn = 30 cm / 1.4 cm per stitch = 21 stitches
Width of the top of the arm - 45 cm
Number of stitches needed with substituted yarn - 45 cm / 1.4 cm per stitch = 32 stitches
Length of arm - 30 cm
Number of rows required in substituted yarn - 30 cm / 1.1 cm per row = 27 rows
Therefore you need to decrease 11 stitches evenly over 27 rows for the sleeve to be the same as stated in the pattern.

Hope this is at least coherent but if anything is confusing, just get in touch! As I previously said, I’ve never subbed yarn in a complicated pattern nor for a very different weight (i.e DK for super chunky) but this is useful when subbing like for like with a simple pattern.

Abbie xo

Patchwork Chunky Cardigan knitting pattern

Patchwork cardigans are having a moment thanks to @wondercocreations and @Id.knit.that. They are the perfect way to use up any yarn leftovers you may have, they’re very easy to customise to your size and they’re very cool. I was asked to make a patchwork chunky delight and this pattern is my take on the trend (although we’re talking slow fashion here and chunky cardigans really are timeless).

Patchwork cardigan in size 1 using Wool and The Gang’s Crazy Sexy Wool and KnitCraft’s super chunky yarn.

Reading the Pattern - I’ve written this pattern out for two sizes. The cardigans fit very oversized so these two sizes will fit a range of sizes but I’ve also included instructions so you can make it fit how you want it - smaller, bigger, longer or shorter- scroll past the pattern for instructions. If you need any help adjusting the pattern to make it how you want it, please do message me - I’d be very happy to help.

Difficulty - Intermediate. There is a lot of seaming and colour changes. I wouldn’t recommend this as a first project but if you’ve made a jumper or cardigan before, this is the perfect next project if you’re looking for a challenge.

Yarn for the Queenside Castle cardigan. Barry bunny is very interested in the wicker yarn basket.

Techniques used -
1) Knit
2) Cast on (cable cast on preferred but use any you like).
3) Cast off
4) Purl
4) Mattress stitch
5) Seaming
6) Picking up stitches
7) Intarsia (Optional) - if you prefer to do intarsia rather than making separate pieces, go for it. I struggle to get the tension right and find mattress stitch looks neater but it’s entirely up to you. Note: If you do do intarsia, I suggest reducing the width of each square by 1 as I’ve added an extra stitch which is lost when seaming.

Needles required - 15 mm needles. You’ll need circular needles for picking up stitches but it’s up to you if you want to knit the body and sleeves on straights or circulars (makes no difference!).

I’ve labelled the colours A-F but you can just as many colours as you like.

Tension
7 stitches x 9 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

Sizing

This pattern is written for two sizes with size 1 being the smallest of the two sizes. If you want to make it a different size, skip to the end of the pattern and there is some guidance for you! Size 1 instructions are stated first followed by size two in (). Size two is the same length as size one, so if you need to make it longer, add an extra row or two for each colour. The arm length may seem small but as the cardigan is oversized, they need to be shorter than you may normally have them.

Cardigan length (A) - 64 (64) cm
Cardigan width (B) - 73 (88) cm
Arm length - 47 (36) cm

Yarn - 6 (7) balls of Wool And the Gang’s Crazy Sexy Wool (here) or similar (other chunky wool ideas can be found here). I would recommend having an extra skein of yarn because you can use a surprising amount sewing and the ribbing requires a skein of yarn).

I want to use this pattern but don’t want to invest in expensive yarn….. can I still make this?
Yes you can! This can be made with pretty much any yarn in your stash as long as you have enough of it and this is done but knitting with more than one strand of yarn (i.e. holding three strands of aran/worsted together or two strands of chunky - here are some more conversions if you need them). If you do this, please check your tension but even if it’s off, the pattern can easily be adapted with some simple maths (scroll past the pattern to see how).

On y va!

Back
The back panel is knitted using 9 “squares” knitted in three columns and seamed together using mattress stitch. I like to seam as I go so there’s not lots left for the end and also you can see your cardigan take shape.

Make 3
Cast on 16 (20) stitches in colour A.
In stockinette stitch (knit and purl alternative rows) knit 16 rows.
Switch to colour B.
Knit 16 rows in stockinette stitch.
Switch to colour C.
Knit 16 rows in stockinette stitch.
Cast off.

The other two panels are the same but just with their colours alternated. For column 2 I knitted B, C then A and for column 3 I knitted C, A, B.

Seam together the three panels using mattress stitch to make a larger (almost) square panel that is 45 (57) stitches x 48 rows.

Front panels

It’s up to you whether you want three big squares on each front panel of smaller ones - you can see how both the designs look in the images.

For the bright cardigan, I made four smaller panels, each made up of 6 squares and sewed them together whilst for the more neutral coloured cardi, I made two panels, each consisting of three squares. I’ve included instructions for both.

#wip of the Queenside Castle cardigan in size 1.

Smaller checked squares

You’ll need to make four of these - two for each front panel.

The front panels are made of two columns of panels sewn together. Each column is made of 6 squares, each square is 10 (12) stitches x 8 rows.

In colour A, cast on 10 stitches.
In stockinette stitch knit 8 rows.
Switch to colour B.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 5 more times, switching colour each time.
Cast off.

Sew two of the four panels together and repeat to give you the two front panels of the cardigan. Line them up with the back panel and from the edge moving inwards, sew them together using the horizontal seaming technique.

Larger checked squares

You’ll need to make two of these - one for each side.

In colour A, cast on 18 (23) stitches.
In stockinette stitch knit 16 rows.
Switch to colour B.
In stockinette stitch knit 16 rows.
Switch to colour C.
In stockinette stitch knit 16 rows.
Cast off.

Line up your front panels with the back panel and from the edge moving inwards, sew them together using the horizontal seaming technique.

Arms (make two)

The colour work on the arms is completely up to you and to be honest, I went with how much yarn of each colour I had left.

Cast on 34 (38) stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch.
Knit 8 rows.
On row 9, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together. Repeat twice. You should now have 30 (34) stitches on your needles.
Continue in stockinette stitch.
On row 15 (13), knit 3, knit 2 together (x 6). For size 2, knit the last 4 stitches. You should now have 24 (28) stitches on your needles.

Size 1
Continue in stockinette stitch.
On row 25, knit 2, knit 2 together (x 6). You should now have 18 stitches on your needle.
Purl 1 row.
On row 27, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 together (x6). You should now have 12 stitches on your needles.
Knit 6 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit and purl stitches alternatively).
Cast off leaving a length of yarn a bit longer than the body - this is for seaming.

Size 2
Continue in stockinette stitch.
On row 17, knit four stitches then knit 2, knit two together (x6). You’ll now have 22 stitches on your needles.
Continue in stockinette stitch.
On row 22, knit one stitch, knit two together (x6), knit the last four stitches. You’ll now have 16 stitches on your needles.
Knit 6 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit and purl alternative stitches).
Cast off leaving a long tail to sew together.

Patchwork cardigan made with We Are Knitters The Wool in size 2 modelled on a UK size 12.

To sew the arms onto the body, find the middle of the arm cast on row (between stitch 17 and 18 (19 and 20)) and line these up with the seam of your back and front panels. Sew the arms to the body using the invisible seam technique. Be careful not to pull it too tight as it can make the top of the arm tighter than it should be.

Using the long tail of yarn from where you cast of at the wrist, mattress stitch up the arm and then down the body to sew your cardigan together. Look on YouTube if you’re unsure how to do this!

After repeating for both arms, you should now have a completed cardigan (excluding ribbing). Try it on make sure you’re happy because once you add the ribbing it’s a pain to change.

Ribbing
The ribbing is optional but I personally think it makes knitwear fit better. I have done all the ribbing in one colour but again, that’s up to you!

The inside of the Queenside Castle cardigan in size 1 prior to sewing in the ends.

Using your 15 mm circular needles, pick up every stitch along the bottom of your cardigan (begin at end of the left front panel (as if you were wearing it).
Knit 3 rows in 1x1 rib (that is to knit and purl alternative stitches).
Cast off.

Now do the same again but for the front of your cardigan. starting at the bottom of the ribbing you just did on the right panel (as if you’re wearing it) pick up every stitch along the front panel, the back panel which sits behind your neck and then along the other front panel.
Knit 3 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit and purl alternative stitches).
Cast off.

That’s all the knitting done!

Now the inside of your cardigan will look a bit like this….. Scary I know. So now you just have to weave in all your ends. Pop on your favourite movie, sit on the sofa with a hot chocolate and let your mind wander. It’s the only way to do it without hating every rogue bit of yarn.

How to make this pattern work for you

As this pattern is constructed using columns of squares, it is very easy to adapt it to fit you or whoever you are making it for.

The first thing to do is decide how wide you want it. Let’s say for the sake of an example you want it to be 130 cm wide.

Tension = 7 stitches x 10 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

130 / (10 / 7) = 91 stitches
Width you want your cardi / (10 / number of stitches per 10 cm) = number of stitches needed

For the sake of making maths simpler, round down to 90 stitches. So each of your columns of squares needs to be 30 stitches wide. Add an extra stitch to each of your columns as one will be lost when you join your pieces together with mattress stitch so for each column you’d need to cast on 31 stitches.

Let’s say you want your cardi to be 60 cm long (minus the ribbing)
10 / 10 * 60 (number of stitches per tension height / tension height * height of cardigan) = 60 rows
Therefore as there are three squares per row, each colour will be 31 stitches x 20 rows.

For the front panels, they need to be the same length as the back but slightly wider than each back panel. You’ll have ribbing around the front so the front panels don’t need to be half the width of the back but this will depend on if you want to wear your cardi closed or not. If you’re not fussed, for the example above, I would make each front panel 38 stitches wide leaving room for 4 rows of ribbing.

WIP of the patchwork cardigan in size two with larger squares on the front panels.

The length of arms required will change depending on the size of the cardigan. If you making it smaller for a tall person for example, the arms will need to be longer than if you were making it oversized for the same tall person. The best thing to do is to measure from the armpit to the wrist, try on the cardigan once the front panels have been sewn onto the body see how it sits on the shoulders and go from there. If you need any help, please do get in touch because it really will depend on the person.

Hope that all makes sense! Writing patterns is still new to me so if anything is not clear or if there’s a mistake in my numbers, please do let me know! I have tested both of these sizes so measurements and stitch counts should be correct.

As always, please don’t sell or replicate this pattern. It takes a lot of work to create a pattern so if you do use it, please credit me as the pattern author. You’re welcome to sell your finished products and please do tag me in any posts of your makes.

Happy knitting,

Abbie xo

Martha Mohair Scarf knitting pattern

Perfectly snug and fluffy, this project is the perfect TV knit. A great in-between project for experienced knitters and also as a first-mohair project for beginners, it requires only two skeins of Take Care Mohair from Wool And The Gang and 3 - 6 hours of knitting. Enjoy!

Martha Mohair Scarf in Take Care Mohair - Bubblegum Pink.

Difficulty - Beginner - advanced beginner (techniques are easy but mohair is tricky to work with).

Techniques used -
1) Knit
2) Cast on
3) Cast off

Needles required - 10 mm needles

Yarn - 100 g Take Care Mohair from Wool And The Gang (here) or similar. Drops Alpaca Silk is good alternative but will be lighter (here).

Martha Mohair Scarf in the making.

On y va!

1) Cast on 26 stitches.

2) Knit every stitch. When you have one stitch left slip it onto your right needle.

3) Repeat step two until you have only enough yarn for one last row (for me this was 97 rows).

4) Cast off.

That’s it! Super simple but lovely, soft and cosy ♥.

If you make a Martha Mohair Scarf please tag me as I’d love to see!

Abbie xo

Bunny Beanie knitting pattern

A beginner friendly, super chunky beanie pattern which is a quick and easy knit if you’re just starting out or wanting to use up some chunky yarn in your yarn stash.

Difficulty - Beginner - advanced beginner

Techniques used -
1) Knit
2) Purl
3) Cast on
4) Knit two together (K2TOG)
5) Optional colour work

Needles required - 10 mm circular needles (40 cm in length)

Yarn - Approx 100 g (65 m) of Lauren Aston designs super chunky merino or similar (here).

This beanie is knit in the round so there is no seaming required! If you need your hat to be slightly bigger, cast on an even number more stitches and just follow the pattern as stated but add an extra K2TOG on the last round. You can make this on straight needles if you’re not confident with circular needles but instead you’ll have to purl alternative rows when you reach the stockinette stitch.

Bunny Beanie made with cinnamon yarn from Lauren Aston Designs using a 2 x 2 rib rather than 1 x 1 rib.

On y va!

Cast on 44 stitches using the long tail cast on method (or method of your choice but I recommend one which allows stretch).

I suggest placing a stitch marker at the beginning of your round.

Knit 14 rows in 1 x 1 rib - that is knit one stitch, purl one stitch until the end of the row.

Knit 14 rows.

Row 29: Knit 2, K2TOG x 11 (33 stitches)

Row 30: Knit 1, K2TOG x 11 (22 stitches)

Row 31: K2TOG x 11 (11 stitches)

Cut your working yarn leaving a tail of about 10 cm. Using a darning needle, thread your yarn back through the stitches you have just worked so they’re being held by the yarn rather than your needles. Pull gently to close the hole. Pass the yarn through the closed hole and sew into alternative stitches on the last round (i.e. the stitches you just passed your yarn through) and tie off.

Optional colour work

The colour work is completely optional but is simple and easy to do if you’ve never done colour work before.

After the 14 rows of 1 x 1 rib stitch, knit 3 rows. Knit the first stitch of the round in your contrasting colour, knit the second in your main colour and repeat until the end of the row. Knit the next row in your main colour. For the next row, knit the first stitch in your main colour, the next in your contrasting colour and repeat until the end of the row. Knit the next row in your main colour. Repeat these 4 rows until you’ve done all the colour work you want - I recommend doing the decrease rows only in your main colour. Follow the rest of the pattern as written.

PomPom - The pompom is again optional but it looks really cute. I recommend a large pompom maker but you can use whatever size and pompom method you like. Consider using both your main colour and contrast colour(s) in your pompom!

That’s it! It’s really simple but looks really cute and is super warm and snug.

If you need any guidance please do ask for help - I’m always happy to talk about knitting!

Enjoy the pattern and if you do make a bunny beanie, please tag me in your makes! I’d love to see it!

Abbie xo

The best chunky yarns

Chunky knits are my favourite - they’re cosy, comfy and you can walk around basically wearing a hug. Currently all my garment patterns are made with chunky yarn and they knit up quickly and are great if you’re looking for a TV knit. Chunky yarn is generally more expensive and yarn choice is generally more limited than other yarn weights and because your project is generally more of an investment, picking which yarn you want can be tricky.

Below are my favourite chunky yarns (plus a few I would love to try) with pictures of projects where I’ve used them. Hope this helps ❤

Wool and the Gang Crazy Sexy Wool - £16.99 per 200 g (80 m) available here

WATG Crazy Sexy Wool in Pink Lemonade

This yarn is the ultimate luxury yarn - it’s suuuuper chunky, soft and the colour range is amazing. It’s easy to knit with, good for beginners as you can really easily see your stitches and you can knit a beanie with it in about an hour. The only downside? The price. It’s expensive and definitely an investment if you want to knit something bigger than a beanie with it. Below I’m wearing the Hero Cardigan in pink lemonade which is the perfect shade of pink and one which I haven’t found anywhere else. I thought about getting this kit for a long time and get excited to wear it which is how we should feel about our clothes. I love it but its not budget friendly.

Lauren Aston Designs - Super Chunky Merino £13 for 200 g (130 m) available here

Hands down my favourite yarn. Ever. It’s so so soft (I have very sensitive skin and this doesn’t cause me irritation at all), the colours are amazing and it’s very reasonably priced for a luxury chunky yarn. You can get four hanks for £46 which is only a little more than a wool sweater from Zara and yours can be perfectly made for you and it’s much better for the environment. Not only do they have an excellent range, their customer service is on point. I’m a total fan girl and her Button (Kn)it Up cardigan is how my knitted cardigan obsession began and it’s my go to yarn. Can’t fault it.

Lauren Aston Designs yarn

Lauren Aston Designs yarn

Stitch and Story The Chunky Wool £9.99 for 100g (65 m) - available here

Stitch and Story chunky yarn

I really enjoy Stitch and Story. Everything is so cute and soft and I think they’re more beginner friendly than other yarn companies. The colours available are mostly soft pastels and the yarn is easy to work with and generally they are well stocked of all their colours. I’ve used it alongside The Wool and Crazy Sexy Wool in chunky cardi projects and it’s worked out fine so if you need a little more chunky yarn to finish a project, this is a good shout. PS. Their amigurumi is really cute too.

Stitch and Story chunky yarn and Lucy and Yak dungarees

We Are Knitters The Wool - £15 for 200g (80m) - available here

This is basically Crazy Sexy Wool’s sister. Same yarnage, same texture just in different colours. WAK have a slighter better deal on price but if you’re in the UK this is shipped from overseas so there is that to consider. Everything I said about WATG applies to this too - pricey but lovely.

We Are Knitters The Wool

Chunky yarns I own but are in my pile of WIPs

Sidar Adventure - £8.79 for 100 g (106 m) - available here

This is the first yarn I’ll knit something with once I’m done with Christmas projects. It’s much more affordable that other options due to it’s yarnage and it’s really soft. It isn’t 100% natural fibre but this does make it easier to care for and by the feel of it you wouldn’t really know. The colours available are more more limited than other options but this is a good choice if you love a neutral palette (I went for the red obviously!!) and it’s lighter than other chunky yarns.

Knitcraft Cosy On Up - £8 for 200g (80 m) - available here

Available exclusively from Hobbycraft, this yarn is 70% acrylic, 30% wool. It’s soft, fluffy and heavier weight - a perfect alternative to WATG and WAK. The fibre does pull apart easier than other chunky yarns and colours are again limited but it’s a nice option if you don’t want to invest in pricier options.

Drops Polaris - £4.50 for 100g (36 m) - available here

This yarn works out at roughly the same price as the Sidar Adventure but is 100 % wool. It has a limited colour range (again a very neutral palette) but is ideal for details such as duplicate stitch or cuffs. It’s similar to WATG and WAK but without the colour range but there are a lot of free patterns available on the Drops Design webpage so if you wanted chunky pattern inspiration to use with this yarn, it’s the perfect place to start.

As I’m based in the UK, these are all yarns I’ve either used or have in my WIP pile but there’ll be plenty more available in different parts of the world (I wish Lion Brand was easier to get over here!) If you have any other suggestions, please message me and I’ll include a list below for other options.

Hope this helps!

Abbie xoxo

Marshmallow Flump Super Chunky Knitted Jumper Pattern

The Marshmallow Flump jumper lay flat.

I love chunky knits and this one might be the chunkiest and cutest of them all. Made from We Are Knitters’ The Wool in Natural and Marshmallow, and Wool and the Gang’s Crazy Sexy Wool in Purple Haze it’s like wearing a hug whilst looking like a cute, pastel dream.

Abbie wearing the Marshmallow Flump sweater in size medium.

This sweater is designed to be quite oversized (I have a 36” chest and I’m wearing a medium) and it is easily adjusted for taller or shorter bodies. It’s knitted in the round, with raglan shaping and the arm stitches are held on waste yarn whilst the body is knitted and then picked up. It’s the perfect sweater if you’ve never knitted a raglan before! There is the option of rows with purl stitches with
extra detail but this is up to you ❤

Difficulty:
Intermediate (can you make left and right leaning increases? If so, you can do raglan shaping!!).

Close up of the Marshmallow Flump sweater.

Techniques used:
1) Cast on
2) Knit
3) Purl
4) Left leaning increase
5) Right leaning increase
6) Placing stitches on waste yarn
7) Knitting two stitches together
8) Cast off
9) Magic loop

Needles required: 15 mm circular needles

Suggested yarn:
We Are Knitters The Wool - available here and here.
Wool and the Gang Crazy Sexy Wool - available here, here and here.
Molly by Mayflower - available here.
Knitcraft Cosy on Up from Hobbycraft - Currently out of stock online but available in stores.

I have used We Are Knitters The Wool in Natural (yarn A) and Marshmallow (yarn B) and Wool And The Gang’s Crazy Sexy wool in purple haze (yarn C).

Please note: I have tried to cover a range of sizes however if you feel none of these are right for you, please do contact me and I'd be happy to work out stitch counts and yardage so you can enjoy this pattern! Writing patterns is still new to me so this is very much a learning process. In the images, I’m wearing a size medium.

This jumper is knitted on circular needles top down with raglan increases. Sleeve stitches are then put on hold using waste yarn and picked up after the body is finished. The neckline and hems are knitted in 1 x 1 rib and the remainder of the jumper in seed stitch.

Measurements and stitch counts are indicated as below - Stitch counts are indicated in size order so make sure to follow your size.
Sizes:
XS, (S), M, (L), XL, (2XL), 3XL

Measurements

Measurements are all in cm.
A- Jumper length - 52.5, (54), 58, (63), 68, (70), 73 (If you want your jumper slightly shorter or longer, simply knit more or fewer rows).
B - Chest (measurement taken from under the arms across the chest) - 94, (102), 111, (120), 128, (137), 145.
C - Arm length (from neck to end of arm) - Up to you- try on as you go!

Tension:
6 stitches x 8 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

Yarnage:
900, (950), 1000, (1100), 1200, (1300), 1400 g of We Are knitters The Wool or similar.

These are approximate - if you need to increase the length of the body or sleeves, you’ll need more yarn.

Raglan increases:
Each increase round will result in an 8 stitch increase- two either side of your four raglan stitches. Use a stitch marker to mark your raglan stitch. Knit up to the raglan stitch, make one right leaning increase, knit your raglan stitch, make one left leaning increase and then continue the round. Repeat this for each increase round.

Optional Seed Stitch:
For my sweater, I have used a simple seed stitch as extra detailing as I think it looks really cute! When my brain can function properly, I will create a chart for this for each size as it’s much easier to follow but for now, find the instructions below ❤.

Purl stitches are done every 4th row on every 4th stitch to create a simple seed stitch. On the 4th round of your sweater, knit three stitches after your raglan stitch (this will include your increase), then purl one stitch. Repeat this until you get to your raglan stitch and then knit three stitches, purl the next stitch and repeat. Every 4th row, repeat this but make sure your purls are in the same place as in above rows! As you increase stitches, you’ll need to add more purl stitches. Counting back from the first purl of the row, if there are 4stitches not including your increased stitch, add a purl on the 4th stitch and repeat for the arms and body of you sweater. Hope that makes sense! If it doesn’t and you would like some clarity, please do contact me and I’ll make an effort to make the charts asap!

The Marshmallow Flump sweater paired with ice dyed Lucy and Yak dungarees in size medium out in the wild.

Yoke:
Cast on 40, (40), 44, (44), 46, (48), 50 stitches using your preferred cast on method on 15 mm circular needles in colour C. Join the first and last stitches in the round ensuring your yarn isn’t twisted when doing so. Switch to colour B.

Knit 4 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit one stitch, purl one stitch).

Switch to colour A. Knit one row and mark your raglan stitches as you go. Place markers after 14, (14), 16, (16), 18, (20), (22) stitches (back piece), after 6 new stitches (sleeve), 14, (14), 16, (16), 18, (20), (22) stitches (front piece) and then after another 6 new stitches.

The next row will be your first raglan increases (see instructions above).

Repeat the two following rows 8, (9), 10, (11), 12, (13), 14 times.
1) Knit one row
2) Knit one row with raglan increases

At this point you will have 104, (112), 124, (132), 142, (152), 162 stitches on your needles.

Your sweater will measure approximately 24, (24), 26, (28), 31, (33), 36 cm measured from the first row of knit stitches to your current row.

For size XS, knit 2 more rounds (with no increases). All other sizes, knit 1 round (with no increases).

Body and arm separation
Knit 31, (34), 37, (40), 43, (46), 49 stitches (this is your back piece). Place the next 21, (22), 25, (26), 28, (30), 32 stitches on some waste yarn or stitch holder. Cast on 4, (4), 4, (4), 4, (4) 4 stitches for under the sleeve, knit 31, (34), 37, (40), 43, (46), 49 (front of sweater). Place the next 21, (22), 25, (26), 28, (30), 32 stitches on waste yarn or yarn holder and cast on 4, (4), 4, (4), 4, (4), 4 stitches. Insert a stitch marker here to indicate the beginning of the round.

You should now have 70, (76), 82, (86), 94, (100), 106 stitches on your needles.

Knit in continuous rounds until you have the desired length for your sweater. I am 5“5 and I knitted 14 rounds which measures 17 cm but this is completely up to you. As a guide, knit 16, (17), 18, (20), 22, (21), 22 rows.

Switch to colour B.
Knit 4 rounds in 1 x 1 rib.
Switch to colour C.
Cast off.

Close up of the Marshmallow Flump Sweater

Arms (repeat these steps for both arms)
Sleeves are worked in continuous rounds. Dependent on the length of your needles, you may need to use the magic loop method.
Place the stitches you put on hold onto your 15 mm circular needles. Pick up the 4, (4), 4, (4), 4, (4), 4 stitches you cast on for the body to join the sleeves and body. You should now have 25, (26), 29, (30), 32, (34), 36 stitches on your needles. Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round. Knit every round.

Every 2nd row, knit together the first and second, and the second to last and last stitches of the round. Repeat this until you have 17, (16), 17, (18), 20, (22), 22 stitches left (this should be after 8, (10), 12, (12), 12, (12), 14 rows). Knit until your sleeves reach just short of your desired length (try on as you go!).
Switch to colour B.

Decreases are as follows:
XS - (k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog) x 2 (12 stitches)
S - k2tog, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1 (12 stitches)
M - k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, k1, p1 (14 stitches)
L - k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, k1, p1 (14 stitches)
XL - (k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog) x 2, k2tog, p2tog (14 stitches)
2 and 3XL - (k1, p2tog) x 6, k1, p1 (16 stitches)

Knit 3 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit one stitch, purl one stitch).

Switch to colour C and cast off.

Sew in all ends and you’re done!
Raglan sweaters can be confusing at first so if you get stuck at any point, please feel free to contact me eiether @abbieknits on Instagram or abbieknits@gmail.com.

Please do not republish my pattern or sell. Feel free to sell your jumpers but please credit me as the pattern author. ❤

Abbie xo

Mission Statement

A mission statement sounds very fancy but really, I’m just here to talk about how I started Abbie Knits and why I’m doing the things I’m doing in the way that I’m doing them.

I started knitting (properly) in 2015 when I found a knitting shop close to my house in Leicester and fancied making something one weekend. I went into the shop, picked something I liked with some appropriate straight needles and thought yeahhhhh I can knit a scarf. Turns out I couldn’t and I frogged it many many times until I finally made something acceptable to be shown to people and gifted it to my sister.

After that I felt very ambitious and found a men’s sweater pattern on the internet, went into the same shop and chose some wool I liked regardless of fibre, weight or whether the yarn was suitable for the pattern. The owner of the shop was horrified that this was something I might do and told her I had found a yarn calculator and that everything would be fine. It was a bit naïve but at the time, most of the patterns I could find were old fashioned, complicated and not at all like what I wanted to create.

So a while later after knitting a little here and there and a couple of Christmas jumpers later, I experienced heartbreak and found myself picking up my needles whenever I had free time and my obsession really began. I found Wool Warehouse, Love Crafts and Ravelry and realised the world of yarn was much bigger than the tiny old ladies’ shop in Leicester and Wool and The Gang (although WATG is still a firm favourite!). On a visit to see my sister in Belfast, we met a lovely lady called Victoria (@Pictureofgrace) at St George’s market who makes amazing amigurumi and this is when I decided to learn to crochet. I joined the lunchtime crafty club at work and went subsequently went through a Toft obsession (we’ve all been there….) and it was around this time a friend suggested I put everything I made on Instagram and Abbie Knits was born.

Throughout this little crafty (hate to say it- sorry) journey, I’ve made lots of errors, frogged lots of things, thrown half finished squishy friends away because I couldn’t deal with unravelling them but I’ve got to the point where I can pretty much make anything I want. And that’s why I made this site.

Being a beginner crafter (here we’re talking about knitting and crocheting) can be a bit daunting and also expensive - you have to buy the yarn (there are so many lesser appreciated smaller affordable brands) the pattern and then the needles, the stitch markers and anything you else you thought you might need because you got a bit excited browsing LoveCrafts. But it is wonderful. It allows you to be creative, to slow down and you’re more connected with the things you create than if you went out and bought said something. And that ultimately is more sustainable for not only the planet, but for your bank balance and it’s excellent for your mental health.

We need to make a move away from fast fashion and we need to do it now. The industry is driven by profits and won’t change without pressure from the consumer. The most effective thing we can do? Make our own items and stop buying. Of course, it is much more complicated than that, but ultimately the items we make will be better quality, have a lower carbon footprint, longer lasting and communities haven’t been exploited in the process. I’m a scientist who cares deeply for the future of our planet and I’m also a crafter who believes in the maker movement and this is why this site exists.

Through Abbie Knits I want to share accessible, free and easy to understand patterns so you can make whatever it is that you want (apart from socks - I’m never knitting socks!). I want to be part of a maker community that is diverse, inclusive and friendly and I hope you want to be part of it too! On a personal note, this website is also a great way for me to document what I make and it’ll become my online knitting library.

I hope you enjoy the website and please do get in touch if you need help with patterns, if you have an idea you want to share, feedback from anything you make or just if you want a chat - not restricted to crafting!

Thankyou and lots of crafty love,

Abbie xo

Abbie and Coral feeling very happy in their hand knitted jumpers- albeit one of them being very ugly.

Seaside chunky cardi knitting pattern

A chunky knitted cardigan perfect for beginner knitters

Welcome to the Seaside chunky knitted cardigan pattern. I knitted this whilst on a trip to the Jurassic Coast and it will always remind me of Durdle Door and Weymouth where I spent a lot of time as a child. It is designed to be worn open and slightly oversized and the size is easily adjustable if you’re tall, short or just fancy something a little off-piste.

This cardigan is super cosy, chunky and perfect for beginner knitters.

Difficulty - Advanced beginner (Can you knit a hat? If so, you can make this cardi!)

Techniques used

1) Knit
2) Purl
3) Knit two together decrease (K2TOG)
4) Pick up stitches
5) Cast on
6) Cast off
7) Mattress stitch and perpendicular and horizontal seaming
8) 1 x 1 rib (knit one, purl one)

Needles required - 10 mm and 12 mm straight knitting needles

Suggested yarn -

John Lewis 100 % wool chunky yarn (shop here) knitted together with Rowan Alpaca Classic DK yarn (shop here).
Note: This yarn was a payday treat and fairly expensive but it is lovely, soft and squishy. I’ve listed some suitable alternatives below but please do check tension if using a different yarn!

Alternative yarns -
Paintbox Yarns Simply Super Chunky 100 % acrylic (click here)
Rowan Big Wool 100 % Merino wool (click here)
Rico Essentials Super Super Chunky 50 % acrylic 50 % wool (click here)

This pattern currently has not been tested for all sizes. I made mine in a size medium and scaled it up and down with some simple maths therefore yardage is approximate. If you have any comments or feedback of this pattern I would love to hear from you!

Please note: I have tried to cover a range of sizes however if you feel none of these are right for you, please do contact me and I'd be happy to work out stitch counts and yardage so you can enjoy this pattern! Writing patterns is still new to me so this is very much a learning process.

The cardigan is knitted up flat on straight needles in five parts and sewn together using mattress stitch. Stitches are then picked up along the fronts and neckline and knitted in 1 x 1 rib. As it is knitted flat, the size is very easily adjustable.

Measurements and stitch counts are indicated as below - Stitch counts are indicated in size order so make sure to follow your size.

Sizes:

XS, (S), M, (L), XL, (2XL), 3XL

Measurements:

Seaside Cardigan measurements

Measurements are all in cm
A - Cardigan length - 48, (50), 52, (54), 56, (58), 60 (If you want your cardigan slightly shorter or longer, simply knit more or fewer rows. Remember to knit the same number of rows for the front panels).
B - Width across the back piece - 56, (65), 74, (82), 92, (100), 110
C - Arm length - 30, (30), 32, (32), 34, (34), 36
D - Width of front panel - 15.5, (19), 22.5, (25), 28, (31), 34
E - Circumference of sleeve at top of arm - 37.5, (40), 42.5, (45), 47.5, (50), 52.5

Tension:

For 10 cm x 10 cm - 8 stitches x 10 rows (Please check tension!!)

Yarnage:

355 m, (400 m), 450 m, (520 m), 580 m, (620 m), 670 m of super chunky yarn using 12 mm needles.

These are approximate - if you need to increase the length of the body or sleeves, you’ll need more yarn.

Back

1) Cast on 38, (44), 50, (56), 62, (68) 74 stitches using the 12 mm needles.
2) Knit one row.
3) Purl one row.
4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have 48, (50), 52, (54), 56, (58), 60 rows. If you want your cardigan to be longer, keep knitting but please note the number of extra rows to make sure your front pieces are the same length as the back. Yarnage will also need to be increased.
5) Knit 6 rows in 1 x 1 rib (This is to knit one stitch, purl one stitch and repeat until end). As you have an even number of stitches you should always start these rows with a knit stitch.
6) Cast off.

Front (make two):

1) Cast on 10, (12), 14, (16), 18, (20), 22 stitches.
2) Knit one row.
3) Purl one row.
4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have 48, (50), 52, (54), 56, (58), 60 rows.
5) Knit 6 rows in 1 x 1 rib.
6) Cast off.

Arms (make two)

1) Cast on 30, (32), 34, (36), 38, (40), 42 stitches.
2) Knit one row.
3) Purl one row.
4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have 30, (30), 32, (32), 34, (34), 36 rows. Please note the decreases below.

Decreases: Knit the 2nd and 3rd stitches and then the 3rd and 2nd stitches from the end of the row together.

XS and S: Decrease on rows 5, 11, 17 and 21.
M and L: Decrease on rows 5, 11, 13, 17, 21 and 27.
XL: Decrease on rows 5, 11, 13, 17, 22, 27 and 31.
2XL and 3XL: Decrease on rows 5, 11, 13, 17, 19, 21, 27 and 33.

5) Knit two stitches, K2TOG until the end of the row.

You now have 22, (24), 22, (24), 24, (24), 26 stitches.

6) Using 10 mm needles, Knit 6 rows of 1 x 1 rib.
7) Cast off.

Stitching together

The cardigan is sewn together using mattress stitch, the perpendicular and horizontal seaming technique. Check out my post (here) about the best tutorials I’ve found for help!

1) Starting from the edges, sew the back and the two front pieces together using the horizontal seaming technique.
2) Lining up the stitches carefully, sew the top of the arm to the back and body pieces using the perpendicular seaming technique. Repeat for both arms.
3) Starting at the 1 x 1 rib at the wrist sew up the arm and down the body using mattress stitch.
4) Repeat for both arms.

Front ribbing

1) Starting at the bottom of the right front panel (the right as if you were wearing the cardigan), pick up every other stitch with your 12 mm needle. Make sure you pick up the last stitch of the left front panel even if it’s not ‘the other stitch’.
2) Knit 3 rows in 1 x 1 rib.
3) Cast off.

Weave in all ends and block if necessary.

I added three buttons just for effect however as the knit is chunky, buttons should fit in between the stitches so button holes are not required.

All done!

Congrats on finishing your seaside chunky knit cardigan! I hope you enjoyed this pattern and if you have any questions or get stuck at any point, please do message me either at abbieknits@gmail.com or on instagram @abbieknits.

Please do tag me in anything you make - I’d love to see your Seaside Cardigans out in the wild!

Abbie xo