Maker of the Week #3 Sydney @Sydsknitss
Welcome to the third instalment of Maker of the Week! This week it’s Sydney from @sydknitts. Her projects are all super cute and the Good News Cardigan is currently at the top of my knits wish list! Enjoy the interview and make sure to follow @sydsknitss!
Hello! My name is Sydney Jessica and I am a twenty year old knitter from Southern California. I'm a junior at UCLA (go Bruins!) majoring in Jewish Studies and History, with plans to be a Professor of Holocaust History in my future!
My crafting journey first began in January 2019 when I was a freshman in college and was having difficulties meeting people with similar interests to my own. One day during work I was distributing posters and happened to come across an advertisement for Crochet Club and knew that I had to join, as I had always wanted to learn. I ended up meeting my two very close friends and learning a new hobby! Knitting has a very close place in my heart. When I first learned how to knit in early August of 2020 with the help of my neighbour, my mother found my late grandmother's old knitting patterns and I loved being able to connect to her in this way. I wish that she was able to teach me how to knit, but I feel like she has in a way!
Favourite kind of crafting?
My favourite craft by far is knitting! I love how you can make so much, from beanies to sweaters. Just the idea of hand-making something is such a lovely feeling, especially gifting it to another individual.
Biggest inspiration?
I would say that my biggest inspiration comes from my personal life: my family, who help me in all of my ventures!! With regards to knitting, my sister lets me know what's currently "in" and my mom helps with sewing in everything! It takes a village :)
Favourite all time project?
My favourite project of all time is my version of the Zipper Sweater by Petite Knit! This was my first time knitting with twisted stitch, Judy's Magic Cast On, and installing a working zipper!
Project you are most proud of?
I think the project that I am most proud of would be my Good News Cardigan, the first pattern that I ever released. From the early stages of casting on, to writing a pattern with different sizes, I learned so much!
Projects on your to do list?
Currently I am working on writing and releasing my own patterns, but I do have a pocket cardigan somewhere on my to-do list! Keep your eyes out for it ;)
What advice would you give to someone who is just starting on their crafting adventure?
Don't give up! I know that it may seem daunting, and there are so many places to start, but I found that the knitting community is always there to help and support you! You may always message me with any questions – I had those same questions when I first started!
Why do you craft?
I love how knitting has truly given me that outlet to express myself and my feelings. Through knitting, I have learned how to manage my anxiety and spin and weave those feelings into something beautiful. I can't imagine what I would be doing without knitting!
Favourite accounts to follow?
I have so many recommendations! I love rachelesparz, Karas.knit.eng, RangerKnits, PetiteKnit, and so many more; they all have such beautiful and talented works!!
Your current project wish list consists of….
Way too many to count! I have Vicky's Vest on my to-do-list for sure – and I would love to continue with writing more patterns (my next pattern, the Amore tee, is in the process of being written).
No 1 yarn?
My favourite yarn company is Wool and the Gang, specifically their Feeling Good Yarn (it's my biggest temptation!). It's making me want to move to London just so I can get the yarn!
Quick fire round!
Knit vs crochet?
Knit always! I wish I could crochet though!
Man made vs natural fibre?
Love those natural fibres!!
Craft indoors vs outdoors?
Outdoors, by the pool or beach!
Chunky yarn vs finer yarn?
Ahh I go back and forth! Right now, thin yarn and 5mm needles only!
Tea vs coffee?
Tea for sure!
Lots of wips vs 1 wip?
You always need more than one wip! ;)
Colour vs neutrals?
I'm too scared to experiment with colours, so neutrals for now! Until someone requests colours haha!
Maker of the Week #2: Jo @andsosheknits
Maker of the Week #2 @andsosheknits
Welcome to the second instalment of Maker of the Week. This week it is Jo from @andsosheknits. She posts the best knitting reels and I’m a total fangirl of her folklore cardigans! Enjoy and give Jo a follow!
Introduce yourself….
Hi I’m Jo from @andsosheknits! I'm a social worker by day and a knitter by night. My daytime career is in criminal justice reform; I currently do data and policy analysis for various states and individual agencies to try and improve outcomes for individuals who are justice-involved. I was born in San Diego, but grew up in Maine, which is the opposite of San Diego in many ways. I've lived most of my life in the north-eastern US, but recently lived in Texas for a year and am heading back there soon, probably forever (#texasforever -- iykyk).
A few fun facts about me are: I'm a quarter Mexican (and a white redhead, so you'd never know), I was on a hip hop dance crew in college, and I've eaten a scorpion. I love traveling, reading, moving my body, and of COURSE, knitting! :)
How do you like to craft?
I'm strictly a knitter, though I would love to try weaving someday. I really like the look of a woven wall hanging and plan to commission one when I settle into a home.
How did you first learn to knit?
I first learned to knit in third grade. Growing up in Maine, it was sometimes too cold to go outside for recess. On those days, my third grade teacher would have yarn and knitting needles for those that were interested in learning. I'm pretty sure my first project was a scarf -- classic! I enjoyed knitting it, but didn't make much at that time. I also learned crochet from my mom's friend around the same time, but couldn't seem to get the hang of it, so I didn't continue.
I took a long hiatus from knitting, though I've found pictures of myself knitting at various times over the years, including at a summer church camp I went to during high school. When I was in graduate school a few years ago, my mom and I visited my grandmother over spring break. My grandmother was losing mobility so we spent a lot of time sitting around. I don't like to sit still for too long, so my mom and I went to Michael's to grab some yarn and knitting needles. I started making baby blankets for friends who were having babies, and soon began making baby bonnets, hats and sweaters for all ages, pumpkins, dishcloths, etc.! I started my knitstagram account and Etsy shop in the fall of 2019 and have been having a really fun time running my small business since then.
Who are you biggest inspirations?
I'm really inspired by makers like Amy @pineandpoppyshop and Brooke @behappedesigns. They both have really consistent content, and seem to be able to balance their maker careers with motherhood, which I admire and aspire to someday. I’m also in love with Kelly @knitbrooks. She radiates kindness and creativity and I am obsessed with her patterns and hand carved hooks and needles!
Favourite projects?
How could I possibly choose one project? There is something to love about every project. The quickness of a hat, the intricacy of lace, the satisfaction of a cabled cardigan. I don't think I've met a project I didn't like. I tend to knit things, especially big things, only once, but I have now made three Folklore Cardigans (pattern by Lion Brand Yarn, inspired by the Taylor Swift cardigan) and am working on a fourth. It's a really enjoyable project, but I can't say it's my favorite because it takes a long time and there's quite a bit of seaming involved, which is not my favorite part of knitting. :)
Favourite yarn?
My favorite yarn has to be Malabrigo Rasta. It's by far the softest, prettiest yarn I've ever worked with. The colorways are all stunning, and the feel of the yarn is unmatched. The super bulky weight makes for fun and quick projects like hats and mittens.
Favourite accounts?
One of my most recent faves is Vanessa @oshenknits. She has the coolest style where she's both low-key and a bit avant-garde. She's a scientist and super nice and encouraging of others. I'm really impressed by her pattern designs, knitting, and general social media presence. It doesn't seem like she takes herself too seriously which I appreciate. The knitstagram is a really fun and supportive place where I am constantly discovering new stitches, drooling over beautiful yarn, and impressed by creative designs.
Visit Jo’s Etsy shop here!
Maker of the Week #1: Madeleine @knit.one.purl.one
The first instalment in the new series Maker of the Week! Meet Madeline from @knit.one.purl.one
Welcome to the new series here at Abbie Knits! Every week, a maker of the week will be featured with the aim of growing our community and celebrating all the lovely crafters who we share our cosy corner of the internet with.
The first maker of the week is Madeleine from @knit.one.purl.one who I’ve had the pleasure of following for some time and along with @maisie.knits, introduced me to the LAD Chunky Merino (for which I will be forever grateful!
I love everything she makes and her work encourages me to try different yarn weights and after seeing her cabled sweater she designed herself, I knew it was something I needed to learn!
Madeleine’s first knitting pattern The Oldenburg Sweater is being released to the world on 03.07.2021 so if you’re looking for a lovely and classic raglan sweater, this could be the perfect project for you! Enjoy getting to know Madeleine, and make sure to give her a follow @knit.one.purl.one ❤
Hi, I'm Madeleine a knitting obsessed human living in West London, but originally from Wiltshire. By day I'm an accountant, which funds my many evenings of knitting! When I'm not knitting I love to get outside in the countryside for walks, read a good book (oh how I wish I could read AND knit at the same time!) and explore new cities, countries and cultures.
How do you like to craft?
I've tried my hand at most fiber arts going: crochet, weaving, macramé, embroidery, needlepoint, cross stitch and punch needle, but knitting is the one that's really stuck with me since I picked up the needles. I just find it so relaxing once you get into the rhythm of it and love spending hours finding beautiful patterns to knit and deciding which yarn to make them with (I rarely seem to use the suggested one!)
Where did your knitting adventures begin?
Not counting a teddy bear sized scarf my grandma taught me to knit when I was much much younger, my first project was the chunky scarf from Lauren Aston Designs. I had been following her for a while on instagram, just in love with the chunky knits (and her!) and when she launched the beginners scarf kit in April 2018 I snapped one up and gave it a whirl. I was absolutely terrible to start with, it took me at least four attempts to cast on and my tension was all over the place. But I still have and wear the scarf and it just reminds me of how far I've come.
Where do you look for inspiration?
love following loads of different knitters on IG, everyone has such individual and cool styles and there's always elements of people's projects that I love and find inspiring. My most recent jumper was inspired by seeing blue and white striped knits everywhere. The only reason I designed my own pattern for it was because I had some blue yarn already in my stash, but couldn't find an existing pattern that I could use it on and wanted to make.
Favourite ever project?
Do I have to choose?! It's probably a tie between the Clotilde Jumper and the Christmas jumper. Both were challenging pieces where I learnt lots of new techniques. I'm never that scared to try new techniques with knitting as if it goes wrong, it's rarely the end of the world as you can just frog it back (painful but worth it).
Favourite yarn?
It has to be the LAD super chunky merino, it's just so soft and squishy. It was probably all I knitted with for a solid year when I first started, although it means I now have way too many chunky knit jumpers/cardigans (11 at last count), so don't use it as often now!
Favourite accounts?
There are so many, but some that pop to mind are:
@Hive_Kints - she was the one who inspired me to start my knitstagram page
@oshenknits - she has some gorgeous and super original chunky knit patterns
@knitsandbobsbyeve - a mixture of knits and crochets, she seems to be able to make any crochet requests she gets (which really makes me wish I was better at crochet)
@minimalistknitting - for when you feel that your addiction to yarn is getting out of control
Hope you enjoyed the first instalment of this series! If you would like to be featured, please get in touch at abbieknits@gmail.com
Happy crafting,
Abbie xo
Sustainability Series: Acrylic yarn
Acrylic yarn is perhaps the mostly widely available fibre on the market today. It’s generally affordable, durable and easy to care for making it the fibre of choice for many. It’s a great choice for beginner crafters as it sits on needles nicely and if you need to frog it, it’s not a chore. But the properties which make it a good yarn also make it a pollutant. It’s persistent in the environment (meaning it takes a long time to break down) and it sheds microplastics which accumulate in soils and aquatic environments. The scary thing is now microplastics are ubiquitous in the environment and can be found in the food we eat (Cauwenberghe and Janssen, 2014), in sediments (Yao et al, 2019) meaning eventually there will be plastic markers in rock (Trinastic, 2015) and a plastic bag has even been found at the bottom of the Mariana Trench (info here).
As a community which is centred around curating slow fashion in a meaningful and sustainable way, it’s important that we become more familiar with the yarns we use. Even as an environmental scientist and an avid crafter, I knew very little about acrylic yarn other than ‘it’s plastic’. So, prepare yourself for some yarn science (coined by Sophie from @knit.purl.girl) and enjoy the confidence knowledge can give you when you next choose some yarn.
What is acrylic yarn?
Acrylic fibres are made from synthetic polymers (i.e. plastics) derived from fossil fuels. The basic building block of these polymers is acryonile (figure 1) and it’s persistence in the environment can be attributed to the double and triple carbon-carbon and carbon-nitrogen bonds. There are various ways of producing acrylic fibres, many of them using either hydrogen cyanide or propylene and ammonia and require high temperatures and are therefore energy intensive. Acryonile can be spun into fibres using organic solvents (which require specialist disposal), metallic salts or hot air.
The qualities of acrylic fibres which makes them so useful makes their disposal difficult – they’re wear resistant, have strong resistance to sunlight, are resistant to biological and chemical agents meaning they do not easily undergo (bio)degradation and take a very long time to breakdown. The exact time it takes for this to occur will depend upon environmental conditions (temperature, pressure, moisture for example) and the exact structure of the plastic fibre and it’s hard to find a definitive answer because there isn’t one.
Acrylic yarn as a source of microplastics
Microplastics are a significant source of pollutant in both marine and terrestrial environments. They can enter the environment directly (for example microbeads in cosmetics) or through the fragmentation of larger plastics where they can persist and bioaccumulate and are generally to be considered to be plastics smaller than 5 mm. It’s a relatively new problem and subsequently, the science is still in it’s infancy and the long-term impact of plastic pollution is unclear. It is possible that plastic may: be a vector for chemical contaminants, promote the growth of microorganisms as it provides a surface for biofilms to grow as well as cause ingestion problems at all levels of the food chain. What is clear however, is that microplastics are ubiquitous in our environment and that we really need to do something about it.
The release of microplastics through the washing of synthetic textiles has been proven but it is difficult to quantify. It occurs through a process known as pilling (basically when your clothes become bobbly) which arises from mechanical action from washing and/or wear. This will happen regardless of what your items are made from and will eventually happen to even the most expensive of clothing.
Microplastic fibres have been found in sediments, organisms and in water sources (Browne et al., 2011) and in wastewater entering sewage treatment plants (Dris et al, 2015). It have shown the microplastic fibres are released during washing of clothing made of acrylic and polyester at 30°C, 40°C and with and without detergent with more fibres being released when bio-detergent and fabric conditioner were used (Napper and Thompson, 2016). It is estimated that 720,000 fibres are released in a 6 kg washing load and these are on average 5.44 mm in length and 14.05 µm in diameter. What is unclear though is how much of this 6 kg of washing consists of acrylic garments and at what stage of their life the garments were at (early washes tend to produce more fibres). When I was researching this, this number (720,000) seemed to pop up a lot but no one had cited where it was from or how it was calculated. It’s a lot for sure and it is significant when you consider how often you do washing and how many wash loads per day or being done worldwide. A quick google shows that there are 83,000 households currently in York (city in the UK where I live), and assuming each household does an average of 4 wash loads (each at 6 kg) per week, that’s approximately 239,000,000,000 fibres released (yes you read that correctly – 239 billion). This of course makes a lot of assumptions and really it’s impossible to work out the real scale of the issue. But it’s a huge problem and it’s a hidden one.
Should I stop crafting with acrylic yarn?
A simple answer is if you can – yes. But it’s a little more complicated than that. Acrylic yarns are generally more accessible – you’ll find them in all crafting shops, non-specialist shops (I’m thinking Wilkos if you’re from the UK and Boyes if you’re from North Yorkshire) and they’re cheaper. My opinion is that it’d be better for people to create their own clothes with acrylic yarn and cherish them than to go to Zara and buy a sweater. Creating your own clothing makes you feel more connected to it and other things you own, therefore needing to buy less. Lower consumption is kinder on the environment.
Affordable alternatives to 100% acrylic yarn (just a couple of my favourites)
Drops Nepal - Aran weight 65% wool, 35% alpaca
Drops Puna - DK weight 100% alpaca
Rico Creative Cotton - Aran weight, 100% cotton
Cascade 220 - Aran weight 100% wool (A little more expensive but it’s a favourite and not talked about much!)
I think that should answer the questions I had about acrylic yarn. As I said on Instagram, this series is simply to educate and also to open up the conversation around sustainability and the yarncraft community. This is only the first instalment of many so as time goes on, my opinions may change or I may no longer deem yarns I’ve recommended as suitable. But this is a learning process and one which I’m happy to be on.
Please feel free to leave any comments or questions or anything you think I’ve missed.
Hope you learnt something and will come back to join me for the next instalment.
Abbie xx
Sustainability Series : Introduction
Introduction to my sustainability series
Hi and welcome to the sustainability series! This started after reading a creator talk about why they use only vegan yarn which led me to realise that a) I didn’t know if their reasoning was correct and b) how little I know about how different yarns are produced and whether there is a ‘best’ choice fibre. Sustainability is such a buzz word and there is so much information out there but it’s hard to navigate as there are a lot of invested interests (an example are fast fashion brands selling ‘conscious’ lines) and subsequently, a lot of misinformation. It’s also a highly charged subject to talk about which people feel passionately about and at times, arguments can become political. I’m going to attempt to find answers for all the questions we have surrounding sustainability and our craft (knitting and crocheting) using only reputable sources and explaining the science in an accessible way. Please remember that this is my educating myself as well as sharing what I learn so if there is anything you disagree with or think is incorrect, I invite you to start a conversation in the comments.
What to expect
To get an idea of what the big questions are, I asked our crafting community for all their questions and throughout the series, these are what I will be attempting to answer.
@the_knit_purl_girl : What is deemed sustainable in the first place?
@yarn_doctor : Plant fibres: cotton bamboo, raffia - are they sustainable and how are they produced?
@craftea_lass: What should we look for when trying to make sustainable choices? What are conditions like for workers?
@yellyswonders : Are there any yarns made from 100% recycled plastic?
@seacoastyarnworks : What are the most sustainable ways to order yarn? Which companies are the most sustainable?
@Alizaknits : Does acrylic yarn really shed microplastics?
@hippie.needles: How do we find out how the sheep and alpacas we get our yarn from are treated?
@homesteadknits: Where do the big yarn companies yarn come from?
@layleej : Is acrylic or wool better for the environment?
@ssshh_im_counting: Are there any sustainable acrylic options?
@blogbykobrak: Is it better to buy new yarn or unravel old projects/clothes?
@heartsbyhopeuk: Sustainability comparison between wool/alpaca/cotton/acrylic
@lestricotsdelene: Price over sustainability? Are there any affordable sustainable yarns?
@yarn.noodles: Does acrylic yarn shed microplastics? Most sustainable companies? How sustainable is cotton?
@berryknit: Which part of the production process has the biggest environmental impact? What kind of dyes do companies use and what are their impact on the environment?
@becciboo4: The truth of superwash wool. Is it coated in plastic?
@knottedinyarn: Cotton Vs wool as a natural fibre?
@eyeof_thetigers: What about cotton/bamboo/silk/mohair compared to wool in terms of sustainability?
Most of the questions were about ‘how bad is acrylic yarn?’ and ‘is super-wash yarn harmful for the environment?’ and lots of questions were asked more than once. Rather than one huge article, I’m going to take each material and investigate how it is made, where it comes from and any associated risks to the environment. Where I’ve used sources, I will cite them and you’ll find a bibliography at the end of every article and where possible, I will use open source articles so you won’t need to pay or have access to a university account to read them if you choose to.
A quick note on sustainability: Sustainability is such a buzz word, it’s almost lost it’s meaning. Ultimately, it refers to meeting the needs of today without impairing our ability to meet the needs of tomorrow and is concerned with not only the environment, but also social equity and economic development. In the context of knitting and crocheting, we can consider 1) the raw material - how it is produced and once waste, how it is processed 2) treatment which the raw material undergoes - for example dyeing 3) How the yarn is transported both from manufacture to point of sale and then from point of sale to the consumer 4) Any waste produced during washing and 5) it’s durability. It’s a huge question to consider and isn’t one which is easy to answer so this is a big journey and one which I hope you’ll enjoy.
Just a short bio about me for transparency - I’m currently an Environmental Scientist at the University of York. I’m doing a PhD looking into peatland management and how this affects peat soil chemistry and how this chemistry impacts drinking water treatment and quality. My undergraduate and masters degrees focussed on water and soil pollution so this is the kind of thing I think about on a daily basis. More than that, I’m obsessed with knitting and I care about protecting our natural resources so I hope through this, I can help by myself and others to make good choices moving forward. At the time of writing (before I’ve done any in depth research), I prefer natural fibre and will also opt for wool or plant based fibre over acrylic. I’m not vegan or vegetarian and I believe it isn’t what we eat that is the problem - it’s how much of what we eat and the way it is produced that is causing harm.
I hope that this series will be educational and interesting, and by learning more about the materials of our craft will make us more connected with both what we’re creating and also the communities along the production chain. Please leave any questions or comments below and let’s start conversations to help us move forward.
Abbie xo
Spring Fling Sweater Knitting Pattern
Spring Fling Sweater Pattern
Welcome to the Spring Fling Sweater knitting pattern! She’s perfect for feeling like a spring meadow whilst it’s cold and gloomy outside or if you want to feel super cute and warm on the cooler summer evenings.
This sweater is designed to be quite oversized and it is easily adjusted for taller or shorter bodies. It’s knitted in the round, with raglan shaping and the arm stitches are held on waste yarn whilst the body is knitted and then picked up separately. It’s the perfect sweater if you’ve never knitted a raglan before! The embroidery is completely optional and suitable for beginners so don’t be afraid to give it a go!❤
Difficulty:
Intermediate (can you make left and right leaning increases? If so, you can do raglan shaping!!).
Techniques used:
1) Cast on
2) Knit
3) Purl
4) Left leaning increase
5) Right leaning increase
6) Placing stitches on waste yarn
7) Knitting two stitches together
8) Cast off
9) Magic loop
Needles required: 12 mm circular needles
Suggested yarn:
Lauren Aston Designs Super Chunky Merino - available here.
Please note: I have tried to cover a range of sizes however if you feel none of these are right for you, please do contact me and I'd be happy to work out stitch counts and yardage so you can enjoy this pattern! Writing patterns is still new to me so this is very much a learning process. In the images, I’m wearing a size medium.
This jumper is knitted on circular needles top down with raglan increases. Sleeve stitches are then put on hold using waste yarn and picked up after the body is finished. The neckline and hems are knitted in 1 x 1 rib and the remainder of the jumper in seed stitch.
Measurements and stitch counts are indicated as below - Stitch counts are indicated in size order so make sure to follow your size.
Sizes:
XS, (S), M, (L), XL, (2XL), 3XL
Measurements
Measurements are all in cm.
A- Jumper length - 48 cm, (52 cm), 56 cm, (60 cm), 63 cm, (66 cm), 70 cm (If you want your jumper slightly shorter or longer, simply knit more or fewer rows after the arm separation).
B - Chest (measurement taken from under the arms across the chest after the arm and body separation) - 100, (110), 120, (130), 140, (150), 160 cm.
C - Arm length (from neck to end of arm) - Up to you- try on as you go!
Tension:
8 stitches x 11 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm
Yarnage:
390 m, (425 m), 460 m, (520 m), 560 m, (590 m), 620 m of Lauren Aston Designs Chunky Merino or similar.
These are approximate - if you need to increase the length of the body or sleeves, you’ll need more yarn.
Raglan increases:
Each increase round will result in an 8 stitch increase- two either side of your four raglan stitches. Use a stitch marker to mark your raglan stitch. Knit up to the raglan stitch, make one right leaning increase, knit your raglan stitch, make one left leaning increase and then continue the round. Repeat this for each increase round.
Yoke:
Cast on 40, (44), 44, (46), 46, (48), 48 stitches using your preferred cast on method on 12 mm circular needles. Join the first and last stitches in the round ensuring your yarn isn’t twisted when doing so.
Knit 6 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit one stitch, purl one stitch).
Knit one row and mark your raglan stitches as you go. Your stitch markers should be placed immediately before and after your raglan stitches.
Knit 13, (15), 15, (17), 17, (19), 19, stitches (back piece), place a stitch marker, knit one stitch, place stitch marker, knit 5 stitches (sleeve), place stitch marker, knit one stitch, place stitch marker, knit 13, (15), 17, (17), 18, (19), 19, stitches (front piece), place stitch marker, knit one stitch, place stitch marker, knit 5 stitches, place stitch marker, knit one stitch, place stitch marker. I recommend using a different colour stitch marker for the start of the round.
The next row will be your first raglan increases (see instructions above).
Repeat the two following rows 12, (13), 14, (15), 16, (17), 18 times.
1) Knit one row
2) Knit one row with raglan increases
At this point you will have 136, (148), 156, (168), 170, (182), 194 stitches on your needles.
Your sweater will measure approximately 30, (30), 32, (34), 36, (38), 40 cm measured from the first row of knit stitches to your current row.
Body and arm separation
Knit 38, (42), 44, (48), 50, (54), 56 stitches (this is your back piece). Place the next 30, (32), 34, (36), 38, (40), 42 stitches on some waste yarn or stitch holder. Cast on 6, (6), 6, (6), 8, (8) 8 stitches for under the sleeve, knit 38, (42), 44, (48), 50, (54), 56 (front of sweater). Place the next 30, (32), 34, (36), 38, (40), 42 stitches on waste yarn or yarn holder and cast on 6, (6), 6, (6), 8, (8) 8 stitches. Insert a stitch marker here to indicate the beginning of the round.
You should now have 88, (96), 100, (108), 116, (124), 128 stitches on your needles.
Knit in continuous rounds until you have the desired length for your sweater. I am 5“5 and I knitted 22 rounds which measures 20 cm but this is completely up to you. As a guide, knit 22, (24), 26, (28), 30, (32), 34 rows. The suggested number of rows assume that those knitting the larger sizes are taller which won’t always be the case so please feel free to deviate from the pattern to make your sweater fit you!
Knit 6 rounds in 1 x 1 rib.
Cast off.
Arms
Sleeves are worked in continuous rounds. Dependent on the length of your circular needles, you may need to use the magic loop method.
Place the stitches you put on hold onto your 12 mm circular needles. Pick up the 6, (6), 6, (6), 8, (8), 8 stitches you cast on for the body to join the sleeves and body. You should now have 36, (38), 40, (42), 46, (48), 50 stitches on your needles. Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round. Knit every stitch.
Every 2nd row, knit together the first and second, and the second to last and last stitches of the round. Repeat this until you have 18, (20), 22, (22), 24, (24), 26 stitches left (this should be after 18, (18), 18, (20), 22, (24), 24 rows. Knit until your sleeves reach just short of your desired length (try on as you go!).
Knit 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together. If you have stitches left over (sizes XS, M, L and 3XL), knit the remaining stitches. You’ll now have 14, (15), 17, (17), 18, (18), 20 stitches left on your needles.
Knit 6 rows in 1 x 1 rib.
Cast off.
Repeat for the other arm.
What makes this sweater special is the embroidery. If you’ve never done this before, don’t worry as it’s simple, doesn’t require too much skill and it’s great for beginners. To do the embroidery, I recommend using a yarn the same weight as the sweater so if you’ve followed this pattern, super chunky. You could also use two strands of aran/worsted together. You’ll need a darning needle and if you fancy it, some sequins.
Lazy Daisy - Tutorial coming soon
Lavender Bunch - Tutorial coming soon
Rose - Tutorial coming soon
Heather plant - Tutorial coming soon
How to substitute yarn
A simple how to - how to substitute yarn in a knitting pattern
So you’ve picked your pattern and you’re stuck choosing your yarn. Maybe the pattern suggests Crazy Sexy Wool from WATG or The Wool from WAK but you want to use a more affordable alternative; perhaps the project uses a DK weight yarn but you fancy using worsted or maybe the pattern asks for a wool based fibre but you’d prefer to use a vegan alternative. The tension (number of stitches and rows per 10 cm x 10 cm) varies between yarns and opting for a different yarn than asked for in the pattern can significantly affect how your project will turn out. Here, I’m going to show you how you can alter a pattern if you have a different tension than stated on the pattern and changing needle size can’t seem to sort it out or if you want to use a different yarn.
Please note: I’ve only done this for simple patterns - i.e. stitches which use only variations of knit and purl and projects which are knitted flat and seamed together.
I’ll be using the Seaside Cardigan size large as an example - you can find the pattern for free here.
This pattern uses the John Lewis Super Chunky Yarn (available here) and 12 mm needles. I’m going to adjust the pattern to use Paintbox Yarns Simply Super Chunky (available here)
Step 1 : Make you tension square with your chosen yarn. If you’re using chunky yarn, cast on around 10 stitches; if you’re using a DK weight yarn, cast on 25 stitches. For everything else do something in between. Knit 10 - 20 rows depending on yarn weight and cast off. Measure your square. For the sake of the example, I will use the tension stated on LoveCrafts - 10 cm x 10 cm = 7 stitches x 9 rows.
Step 2: You need to work out how many cm (or inches if your pattern is written in imperial) each stitch and row is.
length / stitch count = stitch cm
10 cm / 7 stitches = 1.4 cm per stitch
length / row count = row cm
10 cm / 9 rows = 1.1 cm per row
Step 3: Adjust the stitch counts in the pattern.
Seaside Cardigan size large - Length - 54 cm, width - 82 cm.
Length of cardigan / height of 1 row
54 / 1.1 = 49 rows
Width of cardigan / width of 1 stitch
82/1.4 = 58.5 stitches - Cast on 59 stitches, knit 49 rows.
Repeat this for all parts of project.
What to do for parts of the pattern where measurements aren’t given
Here, I’m thinking specifically about sleeves.
Calculate the cuff circumference - original yarn tension = 10 cm = 8 stitches
10 cm / 8 stitches = 1.25 cm per stitch
Number of stitches at the cuff - 24
24 stitches * 1.25 cm = 30 cm
30 cm of substituted yarn = 30 cm / 1.4 cm per stitch = 21 stitches
Width of the top of the arm - 45 cm
Number of stitches needed with substituted yarn - 45 cm / 1.4 cm per stitch = 32 stitches
Length of arm - 30 cm
Number of rows required in substituted yarn - 30 cm / 1.1 cm per row = 27 rows
Therefore you need to decrease 11 stitches evenly over 27 rows for the sleeve to be the same as stated in the pattern.
Hope this is at least coherent but if anything is confusing, just get in touch! As I previously said, I’ve never subbed yarn in a complicated pattern nor for a very different weight (i.e DK for super chunky) but this is useful when subbing like for like with a simple pattern.
Abbie xo
Magnus the Kitty Cat amigurumi pattern
This little kitty cat was a gift for my crazy cat lady sister. He’s a quick simple project with minimal sewing and needs little yarn so can be made from any of your scraps!
Pattern info
Magnus can be made with any weight yarn and appropriate hook. His body is made as a single piece and his arms, legs and ears are sewn on after. The number of stitches you should have at the end of each round is indicated by () after the round instructions. In the images, I used DK weight yarn and a 3 mm hook.
You will need……
1) Approximately 80 m of the yarn colour of your choice
2) Crochet hook
3) Needle to sew parts together
4) Toy stuffing
5) Contrast yarn for eyes and nose.
6) Stitch marker
Techniques used
1) Single crochet (SC) (US term)
2) Magic ring (MR)
3) Increases (INC)
4) Decreases (DEC)
6) Weave in ends and finish
7) Chain
On y va!
Head/Body
Round 1: MR (6)
Round 2: Inc x 6 (12)
Round 3: (SC 1, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4: (SC x 2, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5: (SC 3, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6: (SC 4, inc) x 6 (36)
Round 7 - Round 13 (7 rounds): SC all (36)
Round 14: (SC 5, inc) x 6 (42)
Round 15: (SC 6, inc) x 6 (48)
Round 16- Round 25 (10 rounds): SC all (48)
Round 26: (SC 6, dec) x 6 (42)
Round 27: (SC 5, dec) x 6 (36)
Round 26: (SC 4, dec) x 6 (30)
Round 27: (SC 3, dec) x 6 (24)
Round 28: (SC 2, dec) x 6 (18)
Round 29: (SC 1, dec) x 6 (12)
Round 30: Dec x 6 (12)
Sew to close.
Ears (make two)
Round 1: MR 6 (6)
Round 2: (Inc, SC 2) x 2 (8)
Round 3: SC all (8)
Round 4: (Inc, SC3) x 2 (10)
Round 5-Round 7 (3 rounds): SC all (10)
Sew to close.
Arms (make two)
Round 1: MR 6 (6)
Round 2: (Inc, SC 2) x 2 (8)
Round 3 - Round 5 (3 rounds): SC all (8)
Sew to close
Feet (make two)
Round 1: MR 6 (6)
Round 2: Inc x 6 (12)
Round 3 - Round 7 (5 rounds): SC all (12)
Sew to close.
Sew together as shown above. You might find it easier to sew on the facial features before sewing the body together. For the tail, tie three strands of yarn together and chain stitches until you reach the desired length. Tie to close. You can personalise your kitty cat further if you like! Felting wool is really good for adding little features and is also good for colour work. Why not give him a little hat?
Hope you enjoyed the pattern! If you post any pictures of your makes, please tag me - I’d love to see your Magnus’!
Abbie xo
Yarn review: Lauren Aston Designs Chunky Merino
LAD chunky merino yarn review - the best chunky yarn in all the land
Lauren Aston Designs (LAD) merino chunky yarn is my all-time favourite chunky yarn. It’s colourful and soft and Lauren is a knitting queen. I get a fair amount of questions about it so here is my in-depth review which will hopefully answer any questions you have and maybe convince you to give it a go.
Need to know
Price : £13.00 for 200 g (130 m). 4 hanks for £46 (12% off).
Fibre : 100 % merino wool
Needles: 10 -15 mm (I like to use 12 mm).
Colours available : 25
Suitable for felting: Yes
This yarn isn’t plied but is spun and is light and fluffy despite being a chunky yarn. It’s very easy to knit with, even with unhappy hands from all the hand washing. Click here to browse.
Colours
The super chunky merino is available in 25 colours and they’re all available pretty much most of the time (which can’t be said for We Are Knitters and Wool And The Gang). The photos of the yarn on her website are true to life and the range is excellent. If you sign up to one of the subscription boxes there are secret limited edition colours which you can order anytime so really, the crafting possibilities are endless.
My favourite colours: Mink Blush, Lilac, Sky and Soft Peach.
Texture
The LAD chunky merino is chunky but it is much lighter than other chunky yarns. It’s nice to wear under a coat without feeling like a toddler in a one-piece ski onesie and it’s very soft against your skin. Every person is different but I have very sensitive skin and chronic, persistent eczema and it doesn’t irritate me at all and I can wear it with nothing underneath. It will need de-bobbling with wear but this is the same for any chunky wool based yarn but if you look after it well, it will stay looking lovely for a long time.
The company
In addition to having excellent products and patterns, LAD have really good customer service. They reply to emails pretty quickly (especially current circumstances considering - we’re currently in the third UK lockdown because Covid. If you reading this from far away in the future, be proud of yourself that you made it ❤) and if there are any issues with your order, they keep you updated and are very considerate of you as a customer. The yarn is packaged all with recyclable packaging and it looks beautiful and is very much a gift for yourself.
Recommended projects
If you’re looking for a knit kit using this yarn, I’d recommend the Button (Kn)it Up Cardigan. It’s a really good project for beginners but also a great TV knit for more experienced knitters. An alternative if you just want to purchase the yarn, is the Seaside cardigan which is available for free on this site. It uses simple techniques and 12 mm needles so it’s a great beginners project.
FAQ
How does this yarn wash?
This yarn needs to be hand washed and with a wool friendly detergent. It will take a long time to dry - several days and possibly longer if it’s chilly. I recommend spot washing where possible and if it smells worn to air it out before putting into storage.
How does this yarn wear?
Very well. It behaves like wool does and needs a little extra looking after. This little extra care will ensure your garment will last and this is what slow fashion is really about.
How accurate are the images online?
Very. The colours are exactly how they look online.
What about crocheting?
I’ve tried crocheting a kind of granny square jumper with it and it didn’t work out so well. But I would like to try again. I think perhaps a chunky crochet cardigan so watch this space.
Summary
I love this yarn. The only downside is that the price isn’t that accessible but considering it’s 100 % merino, you couldn’t shop-buy a knit for £46 (4 hanks are needed for a cardigan) made of the same fibre. I have no criticisms of it and in my opinion, it’s the best chunky yarn out there.
Other makers’ projects
Left - right - @maisieknitsx in the dreamy cardigan @knit.one.purl.one in her own design in and @_abbycreates in her brioche scarf and rainbow cardigan.
Note: All opinions my own, I’m in no way affiliated with Lauren Aston Designs - I’m just a huge fan girl.
Patchwork Chunky Cardigan knitting pattern
Make your own chunky knit patchwork cardigan
Patchwork cardigans are having a moment thanks to @wondercocreations and @Id.knit.that. They are the perfect way to use up any yarn leftovers you may have, they’re very easy to customise to your size and they’re very cool. I was asked to make a patchwork chunky delight and this pattern is my take on the trend (although we’re talking slow fashion here and chunky cardigans really are timeless).
Reading the Pattern - I’ve written this pattern out for two sizes. The cardigans fit very oversized so these two sizes will fit a range of sizes but I’ve also included instructions so you can make it fit how you want it - smaller, bigger, longer or shorter- scroll past the pattern for instructions. If you need any help adjusting the pattern to make it how you want it, please do message me - I’d be very happy to help.
Difficulty - Intermediate. There is a lot of seaming and colour changes. I wouldn’t recommend this as a first project but if you’ve made a jumper or cardigan before, this is the perfect next project if you’re looking for a challenge.
Techniques used -
1) Knit
2) Cast on (cable cast on preferred but use any you like).
3) Cast off
4) Purl
4) Mattress stitch
5) Seaming
6) Picking up stitches
7) Intarsia (Optional) - if you prefer to do intarsia rather than making separate pieces, go for it. I struggle to get the tension right and find mattress stitch looks neater but it’s entirely up to you. Note: If you do do intarsia, I suggest reducing the width of each square by 1 as I’ve added an extra stitch which is lost when seaming.
Needles required - 15 mm needles. You’ll need circular needles for picking up stitches but it’s up to you if you want to knit the body and sleeves on straights or circulars (makes no difference!).
I’ve labelled the colours A-F but you can just as many colours as you like.
Tension
7 stitches x 9 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm
Sizing
This pattern is written for two sizes with size 1 being the smallest of the two sizes. If you want to make it a different size, skip to the end of the pattern and there is some guidance for you! Size 1 instructions are stated first followed by size two in (). Size two is the same length as size one, so if you need to make it longer, add an extra row or two for each colour. The arm length may seem small but as the cardigan is oversized, they need to be shorter than you may normally have them.
Cardigan length (A) - 64 (64) cm
Cardigan width (B) - 73 (88) cm
Arm length - 47 (36) cm
Yarn - 6 (7) balls of Wool And the Gang’s Crazy Sexy Wool (here) or similar (other chunky wool ideas can be found here). I would recommend having an extra skein of yarn because you can use a surprising amount sewing and the ribbing requires a skein of yarn).
I want to use this pattern but don’t want to invest in expensive yarn….. can I still make this?
Yes you can! This can be made with pretty much any yarn in your stash as long as you have enough of it and this is done but knitting with more than one strand of yarn (i.e. holding three strands of aran/worsted together or two strands of chunky - here are some more conversions if you need them). If you do this, please check your tension but even if it’s off, the pattern can easily be adapted with some simple maths (scroll past the pattern to see how).
On y va!
Back
The back panel is knitted using 9 “squares” knitted in three columns and seamed together using mattress stitch. I like to seam as I go so there’s not lots left for the end and also you can see your cardigan take shape.
Make 3
Cast on 16 (20) stitches in colour A.
In stockinette stitch (knit and purl alternative rows) knit 16 rows.
Switch to colour B.
Knit 16 rows in stockinette stitch.
Switch to colour C.
Knit 16 rows in stockinette stitch.
Cast off.
The other two panels are the same but just with their colours alternated. For column 2 I knitted B, C then A and for column 3 I knitted C, A, B.
Seam together the three panels using mattress stitch to make a larger (almost) square panel that is 45 (57) stitches x 48 rows.
Front panels
It’s up to you whether you want three big squares on each front panel of smaller ones - you can see how both the designs look in the images.
For the bright cardigan, I made four smaller panels, each made up of 6 squares and sewed them together whilst for the more neutral coloured cardi, I made two panels, each consisting of three squares. I’ve included instructions for both.
Smaller checked squares
You’ll need to make four of these - two for each front panel.
The front panels are made of two columns of panels sewn together. Each column is made of 6 squares, each square is 10 (12) stitches x 8 rows.
In colour A, cast on 10 stitches.
In stockinette stitch knit 8 rows.
Switch to colour B.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 5 more times, switching colour each time.
Cast off.
Sew two of the four panels together and repeat to give you the two front panels of the cardigan. Line them up with the back panel and from the edge moving inwards, sew them together using the horizontal seaming technique.
Larger checked squares
You’ll need to make two of these - one for each side.
In colour A, cast on 18 (23) stitches.
In stockinette stitch knit 16 rows.
Switch to colour B.
In stockinette stitch knit 16 rows.
Switch to colour C.
In stockinette stitch knit 16 rows.
Cast off.
Line up your front panels with the back panel and from the edge moving inwards, sew them together using the horizontal seaming technique.
Arms (make two)
The colour work on the arms is completely up to you and to be honest, I went with how much yarn of each colour I had left.
Cast on 34 (38) stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch.
Knit 8 rows.
On row 9, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together. Repeat twice. You should now have 30 (34) stitches on your needles.
Continue in stockinette stitch.
On row 15 (13), knit 3, knit 2 together (x 6). For size 2, knit the last 4 stitches. You should now have 24 (28) stitches on your needles.
Size 1
Continue in stockinette stitch.
On row 25, knit 2, knit 2 together (x 6). You should now have 18 stitches on your needle.
Purl 1 row.
On row 27, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 together (x6). You should now have 12 stitches on your needles.
Knit 6 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit and purl stitches alternatively).
Cast off leaving a length of yarn a bit longer than the body - this is for seaming.
Size 2
Continue in stockinette stitch.
On row 17, knit four stitches then knit 2, knit two together (x6). You’ll now have 22 stitches on your needles.
Continue in stockinette stitch.
On row 22, knit one stitch, knit two together (x6), knit the last four stitches. You’ll now have 16 stitches on your needles.
Knit 6 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit and purl alternative stitches).
Cast off leaving a long tail to sew together.
To sew the arms onto the body, find the middle of the arm cast on row (between stitch 17 and 18 (19 and 20)) and line these up with the seam of your back and front panels. Sew the arms to the body using the invisible seam technique. Be careful not to pull it too tight as it can make the top of the arm tighter than it should be.
Using the long tail of yarn from where you cast of at the wrist, mattress stitch up the arm and then down the body to sew your cardigan together. Look on YouTube if you’re unsure how to do this!
After repeating for both arms, you should now have a completed cardigan (excluding ribbing). Try it on make sure you’re happy because once you add the ribbing it’s a pain to change.
Ribbing
The ribbing is optional but I personally think it makes knitwear fit better. I have done all the ribbing in one colour but again, that’s up to you!
Using your 15 mm circular needles, pick up every stitch along the bottom of your cardigan (begin at end of the left front panel (as if you were wearing it).
Knit 3 rows in 1x1 rib (that is to knit and purl alternative stitches).
Cast off.
Now do the same again but for the front of your cardigan. starting at the bottom of the ribbing you just did on the right panel (as if you’re wearing it) pick up every stitch along the front panel, the back panel which sits behind your neck and then along the other front panel.
Knit 3 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit and purl alternative stitches).
Cast off.
That’s all the knitting done!
Now the inside of your cardigan will look a bit like this….. Scary I know. So now you just have to weave in all your ends. Pop on your favourite movie, sit on the sofa with a hot chocolate and let your mind wander. It’s the only way to do it without hating every rogue bit of yarn.
How to make this pattern work for you
As this pattern is constructed using columns of squares, it is very easy to adapt it to fit you or whoever you are making it for.
The first thing to do is decide how wide you want it. Let’s say for the sake of an example you want it to be 130 cm wide.
Tension = 7 stitches x 10 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm
130 / (10 / 7) = 91 stitches
Width you want your cardi / (10 / number of stitches per 10 cm) = number of stitches needed
For the sake of making maths simpler, round down to 90 stitches. So each of your columns of squares needs to be 30 stitches wide. Add an extra stitch to each of your columns as one will be lost when you join your pieces together with mattress stitch so for each column you’d need to cast on 31 stitches.
Let’s say you want your cardi to be 60 cm long (minus the ribbing)
10 / 10 * 60 (number of stitches per tension height / tension height * height of cardigan) = 60 rows
Therefore as there are three squares per row, each colour will be 31 stitches x 20 rows.
For the front panels, they need to be the same length as the back but slightly wider than each back panel. You’ll have ribbing around the front so the front panels don’t need to be half the width of the back but this will depend on if you want to wear your cardi closed or not. If you’re not fussed, for the example above, I would make each front panel 38 stitches wide leaving room for 4 rows of ribbing.
The length of arms required will change depending on the size of the cardigan. If you making it smaller for a tall person for example, the arms will need to be longer than if you were making it oversized for the same tall person. The best thing to do is to measure from the armpit to the wrist, try on the cardigan once the front panels have been sewn onto the body see how it sits on the shoulders and go from there. If you need any help, please do get in touch because it really will depend on the person.
Hope that all makes sense! Writing patterns is still new to me so if anything is not clear or if there’s a mistake in my numbers, please do let me know! I have tested both of these sizes so measurements and stitch counts should be correct.
As always, please don’t sell or replicate this pattern. It takes a lot of work to create a pattern so if you do use it, please credit me as the pattern author. You’re welcome to sell your finished products and please do tag me in any posts of your makes.
Happy knitting,
Abbie xo
Martha Mohair Scarf knitting pattern
Perfectly snug and fluffy, this project is the perfect TV knit. A great in-between project for experienced knitters and also as a first-mohair project for beginners, it requires only two skeins of Take Care Mohair from Wool And The Gang and 3 - 6 hours of knitting. Enjoy!
Difficulty - Beginner - advanced beginner (techniques are easy but mohair is tricky to work with).
Techniques used -
1) Knit
2) Cast on
3) Cast off
Needles required - 10 mm needles
Yarn - 100 g Take Care Mohair from Wool And The Gang (here) or similar. Drops Alpaca Silk is good alternative but will be lighter (here).
On y va!
1) Cast on 26 stitches.
2) Knit every stitch. When you have one stitch left slip it onto your right needle.
3) Repeat step two until you have only enough yarn for one last row (for me this was 97 rows).
4) Cast off.
That’s it! Super simple but lovely, soft and cosy ♥.
If you make a Martha Mohair Scarf please tag me as I’d love to see!
Abbie xo
Bunny Beanie knitting pattern
Beginner friendly, easy peasy beanie knitting pattern.
A beginner friendly, super chunky beanie pattern which is a quick and easy knit if you’re just starting out or wanting to use up some chunky yarn in your yarn stash.
Difficulty - Beginner - advanced beginner
Techniques used -
1) Knit
2) Purl
3) Cast on
4) Knit two together (K2TOG)
5) Optional colour work
Needles required - 10 mm circular needles (40 cm in length)
Yarn - Approx 100 g (65 m) of Lauren Aston designs super chunky merino or similar (here).
This beanie is knit in the round so there is no seaming required! If you need your hat to be slightly bigger, cast on an even number more stitches and just follow the pattern as stated but add an extra K2TOG on the last round. You can make this on straight needles if you’re not confident with circular needles but instead you’ll have to purl alternative rows when you reach the stockinette stitch.
On y va!
Cast on 44 stitches using the long tail cast on method (or method of your choice but I recommend one which allows stretch).
I suggest placing a stitch marker at the beginning of your round.
Knit 14 rows in 1 x 1 rib - that is knit one stitch, purl one stitch until the end of the row.
Knit 14 rows.
Row 29: Knit 2, K2TOG x 11 (33 stitches)
Row 30: Knit 1, K2TOG x 11 (22 stitches)
Row 31: K2TOG x 11 (11 stitches)
Cut your working yarn leaving a tail of about 10 cm. Using a darning needle, thread your yarn back through the stitches you have just worked so they’re being held by the yarn rather than your needles. Pull gently to close the hole. Pass the yarn through the closed hole and sew into alternative stitches on the last round (i.e. the stitches you just passed your yarn through) and tie off.
Optional colour work
The colour work is completely optional but is simple and easy to do if you’ve never done colour work before.
After the 14 rows of 1 x 1 rib stitch, knit 3 rows. Knit the first stitch of the round in your contrasting colour, knit the second in your main colour and repeat until the end of the row. Knit the next row in your main colour. For the next row, knit the first stitch in your main colour, the next in your contrasting colour and repeat until the end of the row. Knit the next row in your main colour. Repeat these 4 rows until you’ve done all the colour work you want - I recommend doing the decrease rows only in your main colour. Follow the rest of the pattern as written.
PomPom - The pompom is again optional but it looks really cute. I recommend a large pompom maker but you can use whatever size and pompom method you like. Consider using both your main colour and contrast colour(s) in your pompom!
That’s it! It’s really simple but looks really cute and is super warm and snug.
If you need any guidance please do ask for help - I’m always happy to talk about knitting!
Enjoy the pattern and if you do make a bunny beanie, please tag me in your makes! I’d love to see it!
Abbie xo
The best chunky yarns
Chunky knits are my favourite - they’re cosy, comfy and you can walk around basically wearing a hug. Currently all my garment patterns are made with chunky yarn and they knit up quickly and are great if you’re looking for a TV knit. Chunky yarn is generally more expensive and yarn choice is generally more limited than other yarn weights and because your project is generally more of an investment, picking which yarn you want can be tricky.
Below are my favourite chunky yarns (plus a few I would love to try) with pictures of projects where I’ve used them. Hope this helps ❤
Wool and the Gang Crazy Sexy Wool - £16.99 per 200 g (80 m) available here
This yarn is the ultimate luxury yarn - it’s suuuuper chunky, soft and the colour range is amazing. It’s easy to knit with, good for beginners as you can really easily see your stitches and you can knit a beanie with it in about an hour. The only downside? The price. It’s expensive and definitely an investment if you want to knit something bigger than a beanie with it. Below I’m wearing the Hero Cardigan in pink lemonade which is the perfect shade of pink and one which I haven’t found anywhere else. I thought about getting this kit for a long time and get excited to wear it which is how we should feel about our clothes. I love it but its not budget friendly.
Lauren Aston Designs - Super Chunky Merino £13 for 200 g (130 m) available here
Hands down my favourite yarn. Ever. It’s so so soft (I have very sensitive skin and this doesn’t cause me irritation at all), the colours are amazing and it’s very reasonably priced for a luxury chunky yarn. You can get four hanks for £46 which is only a little more than a wool sweater from Zara and yours can be perfectly made for you and it’s much better for the environment. Not only do they have an excellent range, their customer service is on point. I’m a total fan girl and her Button (Kn)it Up cardigan is how my knitted cardigan obsession began and it’s my go to yarn. Can’t fault it.
Stitch and Story The Chunky Wool £9.99 for 100g (65 m) - available here
I really enjoy Stitch and Story. Everything is so cute and soft and I think they’re more beginner friendly than other yarn companies. The colours available are mostly soft pastels and the yarn is easy to work with and generally they are well stocked of all their colours. I’ve used it alongside The Wool and Crazy Sexy Wool in chunky cardi projects and it’s worked out fine so if you need a little more chunky yarn to finish a project, this is a good shout. PS. Their amigurumi is really cute too.
We Are Knitters The Wool - £15 for 200g (80m) - available here
This is basically Crazy Sexy Wool’s sister. Same yarnage, same texture just in different colours. WAK have a slighter better deal on price but if you’re in the UK this is shipped from overseas so there is that to consider. Everything I said about WATG applies to this too - pricey but lovely.
Chunky yarns I own but are in my pile of WIPs
Sidar Adventure - £8.79 for 100 g (106 m) - available here
This is the first yarn I’ll knit something with once I’m done with Christmas projects. It’s much more affordable that other options due to it’s yarnage and it’s really soft. It isn’t 100% natural fibre but this does make it easier to care for and by the feel of it you wouldn’t really know. The colours available are more more limited than other options but this is a good choice if you love a neutral palette (I went for the red obviously!!) and it’s lighter than other chunky yarns.
Knitcraft Cosy On Up - £8 for 200g (80 m) - available here
Available exclusively from Hobbycraft, this yarn is 70% acrylic, 30% wool. It’s soft, fluffy and heavier weight - a perfect alternative to WATG and WAK. The fibre does pull apart easier than other chunky yarns and colours are again limited but it’s a nice option if you don’t want to invest in pricier options.
Drops Polaris - £4.50 for 100g (36 m) - available here
This yarn works out at roughly the same price as the Sidar Adventure but is 100 % wool. It has a limited colour range (again a very neutral palette) but is ideal for details such as duplicate stitch or cuffs. It’s similar to WATG and WAK but without the colour range but there are a lot of free patterns available on the Drops Design webpage so if you wanted chunky pattern inspiration to use with this yarn, it’s the perfect place to start.
As I’m based in the UK, these are all yarns I’ve either used or have in my WIP pile but there’ll be plenty more available in different parts of the world (I wish Lion Brand was easier to get over here!) If you have any other suggestions, please message me and I’ll include a list below for other options.
Hope this helps!
Abbie xoxo
Beginners guide to becoming a knitter
The world of knitting and crocheting can be difficult to navigate as a complete beginner. There’s so much yarn out there, instructions are all written in code and how an earth do you even begin a project?
When I started knitting, I had no clue what I was doing, if the yarn was suitable for what I wanted to make and I didn’t follow a pattern for my first project simply because the maker community isn’t what it is today. It took me way longer than it should have done (and that’s ok) to figure out casting on, how to purl and to stop dropping stitches, and I had no idea what DK meant.
Now, as the UK goes into its second national lockdown, more people will be picking up needles to learn how to knit. I’ve put together a little guide on how to start knitting, what everything means and some cute project ideas to get you started!
How to get started
Knitting is essentially made of variants of two different stitches - the knit stitch and the purl stitch. There are in essence the same just that the purl is a backwards knit stitch. If you’ve never knitted before you’ll need to learn to cast on, to knit and/or purl and then you’ll be good to go,
My favourite tutorials
Wool and the Gang (here) - Wool and the Gang have tutorials on pretty much everything: casting on and off, stitch types and video tutorials on full projects. They used chunky yarn (their Crazy Sexy Wool) in their tutorials so it’s really easy to see what’s going on and there’s plenty for crocheters too.
Studio Knit (here) - a huge stitch dictionary with instructions for knitting both on flat needles and in the round. The pictures and instructions are really clear and there are charts for more experienced knitters. This is also really good for getting inspiration for projects.
Stitch and Story (here) - short and to the point video tutorials of all the basics you need to start knitting. I don’t enjoy the faff before a lot of tutorials so I really like these.
Choosing your yarn
Patterns will ask for a specific yarn weight and that’s because of tension (stitches and rows per cm) and the drape the project is designed to have. It is possible to alter a pattern if you have a yarn which is a different weight to the pattern, but as a complete beginner, I recommend finding something you like of the weight stated.
A good place to start is with a chunky yarn. It’s big enough to see the stitches but not too heavy that it’s hard to work with and your projects will knit up fairly quickly. Good yarns to start with are The Petite Wool from We Are Knitters (linked here), Paintbox Yarns Simply Super Chunky (linked here) and King Cole Comfort Chunky (linked here).
Choosing your needles
There are 3 types of needles used in knitting projects - straight needles, circular needles and double pointed needles (referred to as DPNs).
If you’re a beginner knitter, I recommend using plastic straight needles as these give enough friction to stop your stitches from slipping off the needles but not too much that it’s hard work (linked here).
Circular needles are requiredif you’re knitting a raglan sweater, a sweater in the round or a seamless hat. They’re also a great way to knit if you’re commuting with your knitting as it’s easier to store without your stitches slipping off your needles.
DPNs are useful for knitting sleeves and are used for socks. To be honest, I stay away from them but lots of knitters use them as their preferred method.
Needles also come in metal (usually aluminium) and wood so really it’s a case of playing around to see what you prefer.
Knitting jargon guide
Knitting and crochet patterns were originally published in magazines where there was limited space so everything was given an abbreviation and it’s not really changed since despite most patterns being available on the internet. Below is everything I can currently think of that is commonly abbreviated in patterns to help with any pattern translation.
There are way more than I have included here, but for a beginner, I think these are what you are likely to see.
Accessories you actually need
1) Stitch markers (you can also use scrap yarn)
2) Pom-Pom makers if you’re making hats.
The end.
Kits and Projects I love
Kits are always a bit more expensive but if you’re looking for a complete set of instructions then they’re perfect. Great beginner kits are available from We Are Knitters (here), Wool and The Gang (here), Sincerely Louise (here), Lauren Aston Designs (here), and Stitch and Story (here). WAK and WATG have lovely garment kits whilst Sincerely Louise have really cute knitted creatures and Stitch and Story have lots of Miffy (a personal favourite!).
If you’re looking for an affordable first project, the Zero Waste Knitting Scarf is a great place to start - any wool can be used and uses only three techniques: cast on, knit stitch and cast off. It’s also an excellent way to use up your waste yarn from other projects.
Hopefully that gives you a good place to start from! If you would like any further advice or inspo, please get in touch ❤❤.
Abbie xo
Marshmallow Flump Super Chunky Knitted Jumper Pattern
I love chunky knits and this one might be the chunkiest and cutest of them all. Made from We Are Knitters’ The Wool in Natural and Marshmallow, and Wool and the Gang’s Crazy Sexy Wool in Purple Haze it’s like wearing a hug whilst looking like a cute, pastel dream.
This sweater is designed to be quite oversized (I have a 36” chest and I’m wearing a medium) and it is easily adjusted for taller or shorter bodies. It’s knitted in the round, with raglan shaping and the arm stitches are held on waste yarn whilst the body is knitted and then picked up. It’s the perfect sweater if you’ve never knitted a raglan before! There is the option of rows with purl stitches with
extra detail but this is up to you ❤
Difficulty:
Intermediate (can you make left and right leaning increases? If so, you can do raglan shaping!!).
Techniques used:
1) Cast on
2) Knit
3) Purl
4) Left leaning increase
5) Right leaning increase
6) Placing stitches on waste yarn
7) Knitting two stitches together
8) Cast off
9) Magic loop
Needles required: 15 mm circular needles
Suggested yarn:
We Are Knitters The Wool - available here and here.
Wool and the Gang Crazy Sexy Wool - available here, here and here.
Molly by Mayflower - available here.
Knitcraft Cosy on Up from Hobbycraft - Currently out of stock online but available in stores.
I have used We Are Knitters The Wool in Natural (yarn A) and Marshmallow (yarn B) and Wool And The Gang’s Crazy Sexy wool in purple haze (yarn C).
Please note: I have tried to cover a range of sizes however if you feel none of these are right for you, please do contact me and I'd be happy to work out stitch counts and yardage so you can enjoy this pattern! Writing patterns is still new to me so this is very much a learning process. In the images, I’m wearing a size medium.
This jumper is knitted on circular needles top down with raglan increases. Sleeve stitches are then put on hold using waste yarn and picked up after the body is finished. The neckline and hems are knitted in 1 x 1 rib and the remainder of the jumper in seed stitch.
Measurements and stitch counts are indicated as below - Stitch counts are indicated in size order so make sure to follow your size.
Sizes:
XS, (S), M, (L), XL, (2XL), 3XL
Measurements
Measurements are all in cm.
A- Jumper length - 52.5, (54), 58, (63), 68, (70), 73 (If you want your jumper slightly shorter or longer, simply knit more or fewer rows).
B - Chest (measurement taken from under the arms across the chest) - 94, (102), 111, (120), 128, (137), 145.
C - Arm length (from neck to end of arm) - Up to you- try on as you go!
Tension:
6 stitches x 8 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm
Yarnage:
900, (950), 1000, (1100), 1200, (1300), 1400 g of We Are knitters The Wool or similar.
These are approximate - if you need to increase the length of the body or sleeves, you’ll need more yarn.
Raglan increases:
Each increase round will result in an 8 stitch increase- two either side of your four raglan stitches. Use a stitch marker to mark your raglan stitch. Knit up to the raglan stitch, make one right leaning increase, knit your raglan stitch, make one left leaning increase and then continue the round. Repeat this for each increase round.
Optional Seed Stitch:
For my sweater, I have used a simple seed stitch as extra detailing as I think it looks really cute! When my brain can function properly, I will create a chart for this for each size as it’s much easier to follow but for now, find the instructions below ❤.
Purl stitches are done every 4th row on every 4th stitch to create a simple seed stitch. On the 4th round of your sweater, knit three stitches after your raglan stitch (this will include your increase), then purl one stitch. Repeat this until you get to your raglan stitch and then knit three stitches, purl the next stitch and repeat. Every 4th row, repeat this but make sure your purls are in the same place as in above rows! As you increase stitches, you’ll need to add more purl stitches. Counting back from the first purl of the row, if there are 4stitches not including your increased stitch, add a purl on the 4th stitch and repeat for the arms and body of you sweater. Hope that makes sense! If it doesn’t and you would like some clarity, please do contact me and I’ll make an effort to make the charts asap!
Yoke:
Cast on 40, (40), 44, (44), 46, (48), 50 stitches using your preferred cast on method on 15 mm circular needles in colour C. Join the first and last stitches in the round ensuring your yarn isn’t twisted when doing so. Switch to colour B.
Knit 4 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit one stitch, purl one stitch).
Switch to colour A. Knit one row and mark your raglan stitches as you go. Place markers after 14, (14), 16, (16), 18, (20), (22) stitches (back piece), after 6 new stitches (sleeve), 14, (14), 16, (16), 18, (20), (22) stitches (front piece) and then after another 6 new stitches.
The next row will be your first raglan increases (see instructions above).
Repeat the two following rows 8, (9), 10, (11), 12, (13), 14 times.
1) Knit one row
2) Knit one row with raglan increases
At this point you will have 104, (112), 124, (132), 142, (152), 162 stitches on your needles.
Your sweater will measure approximately 24, (24), 26, (28), 31, (33), 36 cm measured from the first row of knit stitches to your current row.
For size XS, knit 2 more rounds (with no increases). All other sizes, knit 1 round (with no increases).
Body and arm separation
Knit 31, (34), 37, (40), 43, (46), 49 stitches (this is your back piece). Place the next 21, (22), 25, (26), 28, (30), 32 stitches on some waste yarn or stitch holder. Cast on 4, (4), 4, (4), 4, (4) 4 stitches for under the sleeve, knit 31, (34), 37, (40), 43, (46), 49 (front of sweater). Place the next 21, (22), 25, (26), 28, (30), 32 stitches on waste yarn or yarn holder and cast on 4, (4), 4, (4), 4, (4), 4 stitches. Insert a stitch marker here to indicate the beginning of the round.
You should now have 70, (76), 82, (86), 94, (100), 106 stitches on your needles.
Knit in continuous rounds until you have the desired length for your sweater. I am 5“5 and I knitted 14 rounds which measures 17 cm but this is completely up to you. As a guide, knit 16, (17), 18, (20), 22, (21), 22 rows.
Switch to colour B.
Knit 4 rounds in 1 x 1 rib.
Switch to colour C.
Cast off.
Arms (repeat these steps for both arms)
Sleeves are worked in continuous rounds. Dependent on the length of your needles, you may need to use the magic loop method.
Place the stitches you put on hold onto your 15 mm circular needles. Pick up the 4, (4), 4, (4), 4, (4), 4 stitches you cast on for the body to join the sleeves and body. You should now have 25, (26), 29, (30), 32, (34), 36 stitches on your needles. Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round. Knit every round.
Every 2nd row, knit together the first and second, and the second to last and last stitches of the round. Repeat this until you have 17, (16), 17, (18), 20, (22), 22 stitches left (this should be after 8, (10), 12, (12), 12, (12), 14 rows). Knit until your sleeves reach just short of your desired length (try on as you go!).
Switch to colour B.
Decreases are as follows:
XS - (k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog) x 2 (12 stitches)
S - k2tog, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1 (12 stitches)
M - k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, k1, p1 (14 stitches)
L - k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, k1, p1 (14 stitches)
XL - (k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog) x 2, k2tog, p2tog (14 stitches)
2 and 3XL - (k1, p2tog) x 6, k1, p1 (16 stitches)
Knit 3 rows in 1 x 1 rib (knit one stitch, purl one stitch).
Switch to colour C and cast off.
Sew in all ends and you’re done!
Raglan sweaters can be confusing at first so if you get stuck at any point, please feel free to contact me eiether @abbieknits on Instagram or abbieknits@gmail.com.
Please do not republish my pattern or sell. Feel free to sell your jumpers but please credit me as the pattern author. ❤
Abbie xo
Baby penguin crochet amigurumi pattern
Before bunnies, my favourite animal were penguins. I love how chubby they are, their fluffy cute babies and March of the Penguins is 👌. This little friend was a gift for a friend but he’s perfect to get you through a few evenings in lockdown, as a festive ornament or as a Christmas gift for someone special, little or big.
Recommended yarn:
I enjoy using Stylecraft DK acrylic (here) or ricorumi cotton (here) but you can use any yarn you like. For this project I used a 3.25 mm hook with the Stylecraft DK.
Required materials:
1) Approx 50 g grey yarn (if using DK weight)
2) Black yarn of same weight
3) White felting wool and felting needle
5) Yarn for hat and scarf (use same yarn weight as the penguin)
6) Toy stuffing
7) Tapestry needle for sewing together
8) 10 mm toy safety eyes
Techniques used:
Note: This pattern uses US crochet terms (single crochet refers to double crochet in UK terms).
1) Single crochet (SC)
2) Magic ring (if you prefer you can chain 6 and slip stitch the first and last stitch)
3) Increase (Inc)
4) Decrease (Dec)
5) Chain
6) Double crochet
7) Weave in ends and finish
Reading the pattern:
The baby penguin is made of 6 separate parts which are then sewn together. The body and head are crocheted as a single piece and the wings, feet, hat and scarf are The pattern has been split into body parts with the number of each component required specified before the instructions. The number of stitches you should have at the end of each round is indicated by () after the round instructions.
Let’s go!
Body & head
Round 1: MR 6 (6)
Round 2: Inc x 6 (12)
Round 3: (SC 1, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4: (SC 2, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5: (SC 3, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6: (SC 4, inc) x 6 (36)
Round 7: (SC 5, inc) x 6 (42)
Round 8: (SC 6, inc) x 6 (48)
Round 9: (SC 7, inc) x 6 (54)
Round 10 - Round 19 (10 rounds) : SC all (54)
Round 20: (SC 7, dec) x 6 (48)
Round 21: SC all (48)
Round 22: (SC 6, dec) x 6 (42)
Round 23: SC all (42)
Round 24: (SC 5, dec) x 6 (36)
Round 25: (SC 4, dec) x 6 (30)
Round 26: SC all (30)
Round 27: (SC 3, dec) x 6 (24)
Round 28: (SC 2, dec) x 6 (18)
Switch to black yarn
Round 29: SC all (18)
Round 30: (SC 2, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 31: (SC 3, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 32: (SC 4, inc) x 6 (36)
Round 33: (SC 5, inc) x 6 (42)
Round 34 - Round 38 (5 rounds): SC all (42)
Round 39: (SC 5, dec) x 6 (36)
Round 40: (SC 4, dec) x 6 (30)
Place safety eyes between rows 35 and 36, 8 stitches stitches apart.
Round 41: (SC 3, dec) x 6 (24)
Round 42: (SC 2, dec) x 6 (18)
Round 43: (SC 1, dec) x 6 (12)
Round 44: Dec x 6 (6)
Sew to close
Using your white felting wool, make the white patch on the penguins face in the shape as shown in the pictures. Be generous with the amount of felting wool you use - it’ll look much better if you are!
Wings (make 2)
In grey
Round 1: MR (6)
Round 2: Inc x 6 (12)
Round 3: (SC 2, inc) x 4 (16)
Round 4 - Round 6 (3 rounds): SC all (16)
Round 7: Inc x 2, SC 6, inc x 2, SC 6 (20)
Round 8 - round 14 (7 rounds): SC all (20)
Sew or slip stitch to close.
Feet (make 2)
In black
Round 1: MR (6)
Round 2: (Inc x 3 in the same stitch, SC 1) x 3 (12)
Round 3: SC 1, inc, SC x 3, inc, SC x 3, inc, SC x 2 (15)
Round 4: (SC 4, inc) x 3
Tie off.
Hat
In the colour of your choice
Round 1: MR 8 (8)
Round 2: Inc x 8 (16)
Round 3: (SC 1, inc) x 8 (24)
Round 4: (SC 2, inc) x 8 (32)
Round 5 - Round 6 (2 rounds): SC all (32)
Round 7: (SC 6, dec) x 4 (28)
Round 8 - Round 9: DC all (28)
Slip stitch to tie off.
To make the bobble, tie small strands of yarn into the MR you made in round one. Once you have a good amount, cut them all the same length.
Scarf
In the colour of your choice
Round 1: Chain 50. Turn
Round 2: DC in every stitch (49)
Tie off.
Nose
Round 1: MR 8
Slip stitch to join
Assembly
Sew together as shown below.
For a finishing touch, use a little blusher on your penguini’s cheeks to make them rosy or using a q-tip brush red ink (from a felt-tip) onto it’s cheeks.
You’re finished ❤
Hope you enjoyed this amigurumi pattern! If you post any of your makes on Instagram, please tag me in your posts- I’d love to see.
Please don’t copy or republish this pattern. Feel free to sell your makes but please credit me as the pattern author.
Abbie xo
Introducing the Trumbles
Life at the moment isn’t easy and news of another lockdown here in the UK is gutting. I was very lucky at the beginning of the Covid-19 pandemic to give forever homes to two baby bunnies and now my home is overrun by hay, bunny fluff and binkies.
Barry and Bryan bunny (aka the Trumbles - yes they have their own surname and the vets love it!) are wonderful and they seemed to be loved by many who follow @abbieknits on Instagram. Below you’ll find a little collection of my favourite pictures of them and I hope it brings a little bit of joy to your day ❤
Mission Statement
Mission Statement for Abbie Knits. Why my patterns are free and what I hope to create.
A mission statement sounds very fancy but really, I’m just here to talk about how I started Abbie Knits and why I’m doing the things I’m doing in the way that I’m doing them.
I started knitting (properly) in 2015 when I found a knitting shop close to my house in Leicester and fancied making something one weekend. I went into the shop, picked something I liked with some appropriate straight needles and thought yeahhhhh I can knit a scarf. Turns out I couldn’t and I frogged it many many times until I finally made something acceptable to be shown to people and gifted it to my sister.
After that I felt very ambitious and found a men’s sweater pattern on the internet, went into the same shop and chose some wool I liked regardless of fibre, weight or whether the yarn was suitable for the pattern. The owner of the shop was horrified that this was something I might do and told her I had found a yarn calculator and that everything would be fine. It was a bit naïve but at the time, most of the patterns I could find were old fashioned, complicated and not at all like what I wanted to create.
So a while later after knitting a little here and there and a couple of Christmas jumpers later, I experienced heartbreak and found myself picking up my needles whenever I had free time and my obsession really began. I found Wool Warehouse, Love Crafts and Ravelry and realised the world of yarn was much bigger than the tiny old ladies’ shop in Leicester and Wool and The Gang (although WATG is still a firm favourite!). On a visit to see my sister in Belfast, we met a lovely lady called Victoria (@Pictureofgrace) at St George’s market who makes amazing amigurumi and this is when I decided to learn to crochet. I joined the lunchtime crafty club at work and went subsequently went through a Toft obsession (we’ve all been there….) and it was around this time a friend suggested I put everything I made on Instagram and Abbie Knits was born.
Throughout this little crafty (hate to say it- sorry) journey, I’ve made lots of errors, frogged lots of things, thrown half finished squishy friends away because I couldn’t deal with unravelling them but I’ve got to the point where I can pretty much make anything I want. And that’s why I made this site.
Being a beginner crafter (here we’re talking about knitting and crocheting) can be a bit daunting and also expensive - you have to buy the yarn (there are so many lesser appreciated smaller affordable brands) the pattern and then the needles, the stitch markers and anything you else you thought you might need because you got a bit excited browsing LoveCrafts. But it is wonderful. It allows you to be creative, to slow down and you’re more connected with the things you create than if you went out and bought said something. And that ultimately is more sustainable for not only the planet, but for your bank balance and it’s excellent for your mental health.
We need to make a move away from fast fashion and we need to do it now. The industry is driven by profits and won’t change without pressure from the consumer. The most effective thing we can do? Make our own items and stop buying. Of course, it is much more complicated than that, but ultimately the items we make will be better quality, have a lower carbon footprint, longer lasting and communities haven’t been exploited in the process. I’m a scientist who cares deeply for the future of our planet and I’m also a crafter who believes in the maker movement and this is why this site exists.
Through Abbie Knits I want to share accessible, free and easy to understand patterns so you can make whatever it is that you want (apart from socks - I’m never knitting socks!). I want to be part of a maker community that is diverse, inclusive and friendly and I hope you want to be part of it too! On a personal note, this website is also a great way for me to document what I make and it’ll become my online knitting library.
I hope you enjoy the website and please do get in touch if you need help with patterns, if you have an idea you want to share, feedback from anything you make or just if you want a chat - not restricted to crafting!
Thankyou and lots of crafty love,
Abbie xo
Why yarn is so great
Since Covid came along and changed the world forever, crafting has become cool. It was already great and now even Tom Daley is doing it. I’m very grateful to have been able to learn this skill and the joy it brings into my life.
1) Crafting brings people together
The crafting community is kind, colourful and a wonderful thing to be part of. Seeing other projects gives you inspiration, you find great new yarns (I discovered Lauren Aston Designs on Instagram during lockdown and now my life is full of chunky merino) and you meet lovely people who become internet friends who otherwise, you would have never found. It’s corny yes, but I’m all here for it.
2) Makes you appreciate your clothing more
Fast fashion is destroying the planet. I don’t care what Inside Missguided (check out the documentary on 4od) has to say - fast fashion has a bad rep and it deserves it. We’ve become very disconnected with where our clothes come from, and as fashion is so readily available there is little consideration for what happens to it once we get rid of it. Creating your own clothes -whether its by crochet, knitting or sewing-allows you to make something exactly how you want it, with the materials you like and the time spent to create something really gives value to it. I might have knitted more cardis then I’ll ever need over lockdown but I’ll never get rid of any of them and if the end of the world ever comes (planning ahead in case of a zombie invasion anyone?) I know I can be snug and cosy hiding away with the bunnies.
3) Benefits to mental wellbeing
Life is hard sometimes (especially now) and knitting for me is meditation. Now I’ve practiced a lot, I don’t have to think about it my favourite evening activity is to sit down either in quiet or with the TV and knit. Call me a granny, but it makes me happy and after spending a day feeling frazzled by my PhD, its the perfect way to reset.
4) It’s something which is accessible to most
Some yarn is really expensive but there are so many more accessible brands out there doing great things. Drops yarn is amazing- they have a huge range with a lot of colours with more free patterns on their website than you could ever make - and you can make a 100% alpaca yarn jumper for around £30 (depending on size). Stylecraft is a great acrylic option (readily available in a lot of craft shops and Paintbox yarns have some lovely cotton options. Wool and the Gang’s Crazy Sexy Wool is lovely but ideally I’d like my projects to cost less than two weeks food shopping.
I could go on, but I’d love to know why you love crafting! Comment below or feel free to message me on Instagram for more crafty chat!
xoxo
Seaside chunky cardi knitting pattern
Free Seaside chunky knitted cardigan pattern
Perfect for a beginner knitter.
A chunky knitted cardigan perfect for beginner knitters
Welcome to the Seaside chunky knitted cardigan pattern. I knitted this whilst on a trip to the Jurassic Coast and it will always remind me of Durdle Door and Weymouth where I spent a lot of time as a child. It is designed to be worn open and slightly oversized and the size is easily adjustable if you’re tall, short or just fancy something a little off-piste.
This cardigan is super cosy, chunky and perfect for beginner knitters.
Difficulty - Advanced beginner (Can you knit a hat? If so, you can make this cardi!)
Techniques used
1) Knit
2) Purl
3) Knit two together decrease (K2TOG)
4) Pick up stitches
5) Cast on
6) Cast off
7) Mattress stitch and perpendicular and horizontal seaming
8) 1 x 1 rib (knit one, purl one)
Needles required - 10 mm and 12 mm straight knitting needles
Suggested yarn -
John Lewis 100 % wool chunky yarn (shop here) knitted together with Rowan Alpaca Classic DK yarn (shop here).
Note: This yarn was a payday treat and fairly expensive but it is lovely, soft and squishy. I’ve listed some suitable alternatives below but please do check tension if using a different yarn!
Alternative yarns -
Paintbox Yarns Simply Super Chunky 100 % acrylic (click here)
Rowan Big Wool 100 % Merino wool (click here)
Rico Essentials Super Super Chunky 50 % acrylic 50 % wool (click here)
This pattern currently has not been tested for all sizes. I made mine in a size medium and scaled it up and down with some simple maths therefore yardage is approximate. If you have any comments or feedback of this pattern I would love to hear from you!
Please note: I have tried to cover a range of sizes however if you feel none of these are right for you, please do contact me and I'd be happy to work out stitch counts and yardage so you can enjoy this pattern! Writing patterns is still new to me so this is very much a learning process.
The cardigan is knitted up flat on straight needles in five parts and sewn together using mattress stitch. Stitches are then picked up along the fronts and neckline and knitted in 1 x 1 rib. As it is knitted flat, the size is very easily adjustable.
Measurements and stitch counts are indicated as below - Stitch counts are indicated in size order so make sure to follow your size.
Sizes:
XS, (S), M, (L), XL, (2XL), 3XL
Measurements:
Measurements are all in cm
A - Cardigan length - 48, (50), 52, (54), 56, (58), 60 (If you want your cardigan slightly shorter or longer, simply knit more or fewer rows. Remember to knit the same number of rows for the front panels).
B - Width across the back piece - 56, (65), 74, (82), 92, (100), 110
C - Arm length - 30, (30), 32, (32), 34, (34), 36
D - Width of front panel - 15.5, (19), 22.5, (25), 28, (31), 34
E - Circumference of sleeve at top of arm - 37.5, (40), 42.5, (45), 47.5, (50), 52.5
Tension:
For 10 cm x 10 cm - 8 stitches x 10 rows (Please check tension!!)
Yarnage:
355 m, (400 m), 450 m, (520 m), 580 m, (620 m), 670 m of super chunky yarn using 12 mm needles.
These are approximate - if you need to increase the length of the body or sleeves, you’ll need more yarn.
Back
1) Cast on 38, (44), 50, (56), 62, (68) 74 stitches using the 12 mm needles.
2) Knit one row.
3) Purl one row.
4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have 48, (50), 52, (54), 56, (58), 60 rows. If you want your cardigan to be longer, keep knitting but please note the number of extra rows to make sure your front pieces are the same length as the back. Yarnage will also need to be increased.
5) Knit 6 rows in 1 x 1 rib (This is to knit one stitch, purl one stitch and repeat until end). As you have an even number of stitches you should always start these rows with a knit stitch.
6) Cast off.
Front (make two):
1) Cast on 10, (12), 14, (16), 18, (20), 22 stitches.
2) Knit one row.
3) Purl one row.
4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have 48, (50), 52, (54), 56, (58), 60 rows.
5) Knit 6 rows in 1 x 1 rib.
6) Cast off.
Arms (make two)
1) Cast on 30, (32), 34, (36), 38, (40), 42 stitches.
2) Knit one row.
3) Purl one row.
4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have 30, (30), 32, (32), 34, (34), 36 rows. Please note the decreases below.
Decreases: Knit the 2nd and 3rd stitches and then the 3rd and 2nd stitches from the end of the row together.
XS and S: Decrease on rows 5, 11, 17 and 21.
M and L: Decrease on rows 5, 11, 13, 17, 21 and 27.
XL: Decrease on rows 5, 11, 13, 17, 22, 27 and 31.
2XL and 3XL: Decrease on rows 5, 11, 13, 17, 19, 21, 27 and 33.
5) Knit two stitches, K2TOG until the end of the row.
You now have 22, (24), 22, (24), 24, (24), 26 stitches.
6) Using 10 mm needles, Knit 6 rows of 1 x 1 rib.
7) Cast off.
Stitching together
The cardigan is sewn together using mattress stitch, the perpendicular and horizontal seaming technique. Check out my post (here) about the best tutorials I’ve found for help!
1) Starting from the edges, sew the back and the two front pieces together using the horizontal seaming technique.
2) Lining up the stitches carefully, sew the top of the arm to the back and body pieces using the perpendicular seaming technique. Repeat for both arms.
3) Starting at the 1 x 1 rib at the wrist sew up the arm and down the body using mattress stitch.
4) Repeat for both arms.
Front ribbing
1) Starting at the bottom of the right front panel (the right as if you were wearing the cardigan), pick up every other stitch with your 12 mm needle. Make sure you pick up the last stitch of the left front panel even if it’s not ‘the other stitch’.
2) Knit 3 rows in 1 x 1 rib.
3) Cast off.
Weave in all ends and block if necessary.
I added three buttons just for effect however as the knit is chunky, buttons should fit in between the stitches so button holes are not required.
All done!
Congrats on finishing your seaside chunky knit cardigan! I hope you enjoyed this pattern and if you have any questions or get stuck at any point, please do message me either at abbieknits@gmail.com or on instagram @abbieknits.
Please do tag me in anything you make - I’d love to see your Seaside Cardigans out in the wild!
Abbie xo